Dôme des Glaciers : Arête des Lanchettes

Dôme des Glaciers : Arête des Lanchettes

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

PD-  
2
    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1950 m / 3592 m

height_diff_up: 1650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 700 m

slope: 40°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Route

Early season
Go up the slopes above the hut to reach a small gap in the ridge, (a passage of 40º just before the ridge.) From the gap it is easiest to follow the crest of the ridge, which for the most part is more walking than climbing, to the Col des Glaciers.
Classic
From the hut follow the path which passes close by the S ridge of the Lanchettes (point 2562m on the map), then go up the moraine of the glacier des Glaciers and the snow slope above. Reach a higher snow slope by climbing a rock band, (bolts in place), and go up this to the Col des Glaciers.

From the Col des Glaciers, avoid a steep wall on the right, then follow the ridge. There is an exposed section, (called the three pinnacles), follow the crest of the ridge as best as possible. Finally you arrive at a snow ridge leading to the summit of the “Dôme”.

Descent

If the glacier is OK, (ask the hut warden) descend it in the middle, (some snow bridges,) then on the true right hand side, weaving between the crevasses.
If the glacier is no longer passable, go back down the ridge to the Col des Glaciers and then down the snow slope to the rock band. Down climb this or use the bolts for an abseil. From here the moraine is quickly reached.

To avoid going back to the hut do not follow the ski track as marked in blue on the IGN map, but take the path down the crest of the moraine. Ignore the path on the on the right towards the hut (point 2562m) and also the path on the left towards the col de la Seigne (signposted). Continue straight on down, always on the moraine, steep with grass, loose stones, steps, often damp, hard on the knees and bottom. The path rejoins the hut path at the level of the “passerelle” (footbridge) at about 2000-2100 m.

remarks

• In the morning the glacier is in the shade of the S ridge of the Aiguille des Glaciers.
• Lots of crevasses on the glacier.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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