Première pointe des Nantillons : Guy Anne "L'insolite"

Première pointe des Nantillons : Guy Anne "L'insolite"

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD+  
6a+ > 5c

    II  X1    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2571 m / 2921 m

height_diff_up: 370 m

height_diff_difficulties: 370 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The line follows that of a faint pillar leading to the summit of the Pointe des Nantillons. In a great situation with good views, especially of the South Face of the Fou and lines for the future!

Approach

The start is at the foot of the first Pointe des Nantillons, which you reach from the hut by contouring, (slightly downward at first to avoid some slabs,) do not walk under the seracs! The approach does not cross a glacier so crampons are often not necessary. The route begins at the extreme left, not far from a little ice wall, which bars access to the Envers de Blatiere glacier. Knotted rope in-situ.

Route 5 to 6 h

Use the knotted rope or alternatively L0 : 20m 5c short corner after 10m sloping from right to left, belay on a bolt and nuts, (the bolt, used for the knotted rope, is broken.)

L1 5b 40m Climb some corners and cracks to pass by some terraces to a belay in the line of a vertical crack and 5m from an obvious corner. (Good view of the pillar of « Amazonia » to the right.
L2 6a+ 40m A steep crack, with good holds and possible to protect, difficult slab move to the left(bolt.) A memorable pitch .
L3 6a/6a+ 40m A crack slanting to the left for 20m, protectable with little friends and wires, then a crack straight up (bolt.)
L4 5c 40m Climb the corners and cracks tending slightly rightwards, then a slab move to the left.
The rest of the line is now pretty direct:
L5 6a 35m Slabs and cracks
L6 6a 40m Slabs and cracks
L7 6a 35m Difficult crack move, belay well to the right.
L8 5c 35m
L9 6a+ 35m Weave up the knobbly slab then flakes, (to be turned on the left.)
L10 6a+ 40m Delicate corner then a knobbly slab to the right, superb.
L11 6a 40m Crack then traverse a slab to the left (bolt,) then again a crack and leftwards traverse to finish up a superb slab and the left-hand "Pointe" (unlike the "traditional" Guy-Anne and Bienvenue au Georges V.)

Descent 1h30

Abseil down the route, (taking care with the rope jamming, lots of flakes and not very steep.)

remarks

º Faces SE, gets the sun early and loses it around 15h, best in the middle of the afternoon.
º 350m of sustained 6a
º Good introduction to Chamonix granite
º The first three pitches are steep and will wake you up. Skill need in placing protection quickly.
º Similar to Marchand de Sable on the Tour Rouge, sun, beautiful granite, varied climbing, though mainly slabs and cracks, sustained.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Set of friends 0.5 to 3.5. Small wires (Pitch 3)

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