Barberine : Sylvie Phobie

Barberine : Sylvie Phobie

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1324 - Barberine
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

TD  
6c > 6a+A0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1200 m / 1300 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

orientations

E W S N

description

From Chamonix go towards Martigny over the Col des Montets and take a little road on the left, 600m before the Swiss border, leading to the little village of Baberine. Park on the right just after the junction and before the first bend, as there is no parking in the village.

Approach 20mins

From the village take the path across the little river, (bathing pools,) then across a meadow before going up towards the left hand end of the cliff, and well to the left of the "Ecole d'escalade" on the lower slabs. (Some cairns and paint marks.)

Route

L1 4c Slab
L2 5c Slab
L3 5c+ Slab with a thin start
L4 6b A steeper slab on the left, (with possible belay part way up.) One move of 6b, avoidable on the left at 5c
L5 6c+ A small, juggy roof to reach a traverse, the crux, under the belay, (a sling in place for aid if needed
L6 5c/6a Short pitch to reach a belay under the roof.
L7 6b+ A beautiful if strenuous pitch on good, sandy coloured rock with a little traverse and a well bolted roof.
L8 6a+ A thin pitch, exiting on the right to reach a ledge.
Traverse rightwards along the ledge (move of 3) to chose one of three finishes :
L9 5b Original finish up a slab on the far right.
L9' 6b+ In the middle by a pleasant yellow overhang, last pitch of "Mirrors on the ceilling".
L9'' 6b The furthest left at the start of the ledge, with a chain hanging down from a slight slope. The finish of "La Barbourine".

Descent

Abseil down the route or on foot, following the faint footpaths.

remarks

• Some difficult moves but not sustained.
• Slabs lower down, overhangs and corners higher up.
• Fairly well equipped but some of the bolts are ageing
• Pay particular attention to « ageing » at the belays. Most of the intermediate belay bolts are not linked.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

• 60m rope recommended for the abseil down Sylvie Phobie

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