Pointe Dzérat (Pointe E du Midi) : Le 1er Pilier + Mauvaise Vue

Pointe Dzérat (Pointe E du Midi) : Le 1er Pilier + Mauvaise Vue

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face, pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 1613 m / 2278 m

height_diff_up: 600 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1h

From the Col de la Colombière, follow the path towards the Lac de Peyre, then at the level of a scree slope, (after about 30 or 40mins, cairn,) go to the right towards the 1st Pillar passing behind an obvious large boulder and crossing a large scree slope on a faint path with a few cairns.

Route

1st Pillar (150m) Starts down on the right at the foot of the pillar.
L1 : 4c, 35m, nice slab
L2 : 5c, 35m, 5m traverse towards the pillar, then a very nice, vertical and varied pitch.
L3 : 3c, 10m, Short pitch
L4 : 5c, 40m, Firstly, 20m of easy but unstable ground, then a steep slab, (1 move of 5c) followed by a corner, (easier, but watch out for rope drag.) The first in-situ gear is a peg which gives protection for a horizontal traverse.
L5 : 5b, 30m, Vertical corner with a little rock step to exit. The first bolt is difficult to see and is slightly to the left in some yellow rock.

“Mauvaise vue" Starts slightly higher up on the left.
L1 : 5a, 35m, easy slab
L2 : 5c, 35m, easy slab followed by a 20m, magnificent, vertical rock band.

Descent

Abseil back down the route. Pitches 3 and 2 go in one abseil for "1er Pilier".
One abseil for "Mauvaise Vue".

remarks

Some stonefall risk if there are other parties or ibex about.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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