Mont Blanc : Éperon de la Brenva

Mont Blanc : Éperon de la Brenva

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: traverse, return_same_way, loop_hut
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: face, edge

quality: fine

Rating

D   3    IV 
5.2 / E3
TD / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 3665 m / 4810 m

height_diff_up: 1142 m

height_diff_difficulties: 800 m

slope: 60°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

Go to the [[|huts/103949/fr/bivouac-de-la-fourche]] either from the Aigulle du Midi or the Pointe Hellbronner.

Route

From the Fourche bivouac, Make an abseil down onto the glacier in the Brenva bowl, (the balustrade of the hut is ideal for this.)
Go across to the Gussfeld Couloir which you climb to reach the Brenva Spur, 50-55°.
Once on the spur. Climb it up to the last rock step, (4300m), 45-50°.

From here there are three options :
- Go around the seracs to the left
- Go straight up, steep but not very exposed
- Go around to the right, make a (about) 10m abseil (pegs in place) then a short, very exposed traverse. Traverse further to reach the foot of the ridge next to the "mur de la côte”.

Continue to the summit of Mt Blanc

Descent

By one of the many classic routes :
The 3 Monts Blancs to the l'Aiguille du Midi
The Bosses ridge and the Gouter hut
The Bosses ridge and the Grands Mulets hut (sérac fall risk)
The Aiguilles Grises (to get back to Italy).

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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