Grand Perron : La balade des gens heureux

Grand Perron : La balade des gens heureux

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1324 - Barberine
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD  
6b > 6bA0

    II  X2    P1  E5 

heights

elevation min/max : 1960 m / 2673 m

height_diff: +713 m / -713 m

height_diff_difficulties: 240 m

difficulties_height: 2420 m

Access

height_diff_access: 450 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1h30 à 2h00 from the parking

From the parking at Emosson, traverse the dam and go along the side of the lake for 500m, then the path on the left to Loriaz Follow it for about 1.5kms, then take a little path which climbs to the right and into the Comb de lours. Follow the cairns.

Route

The climb is equipped with bolts with hangars, well spaced on the easier pitches.

L1 5c Start on a steep slab to finish up a little pillar, slightly laid back.
L2 5b A little wall and then a slab.
L3 5b Slab.
L4 6a+ or A0 A slightly overhanging and strenuous wall, well bolted; Careful with rope drag on the rest of the pitch after the crux.
L5 6a A steep and delicate start then a slab, also delicate, with well spaced bolts.
L6 5c+ Superb slab, friction and nodules, a little overhang and then juggy, vertical corner.
L7 6a Easy to start with then a vertical spur to within 10m of the summit.
L8 Walk to the summit, superb views.

Descent

Abseil back down the route. (metal rings and thin rope, or a sling, should be changed if looks to have aged) Return to the parking they way you came.

remarks

The cliff dries very quickly and should be possible early in the season.
There is often a snowfield at the base of the cliff, right up to the end of July

A good, varied route, which requires confidence in climbing big routes.

Slabs, pillars, step walls and corners.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

A dozen quickdraws, HELMET, 2×50 m rope, 2 large slings for the belays

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