Le Magicien d'Oz

Le Magicien d'Oz

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1324 - Barberine
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

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Rating

TD-  
6b > 6aA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 900 m / 1300 m

height_diff: +400 m / -612 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 1000 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Michel Piola, 2014 (??)

description

Approach 20min

From Barberine village parking (just after turn when leaving main road, please avoid parking in the village) or from Châtelard-Frontière parking, reach the summer holiday building, which is just below the cliff.
Go up through the woods to the base of the lower slabs, (popular for shorter, easier routes.)

Then here, two possibilities:

  • Recommended : climb 2 pitches (e.g. the line of glue in bolts) on the lower slabs to reach a ledge with a cable (5b,6a).
  • Go up the path on the right for about 50m height gain then traverse back left to the the cable.

Once at the cable, traverse leftwards until the end of the cable. Go up to the foot of the rock then slightly leftwards and up (old fixed rope) to a bay with a ring bolt.
4m above is an overhang with a bolt on its right lip. Magicien d'Oz takes the line of glue-in bolts just to the right of this, starting a depression of white rock. (Right again of this is "Bon Voyage",1st pitch: steep wall, new spits "Fixe").

Route 4h

L1 6a Diedre then traverse on left to finish on a slab. Comfortable ledge for belaying.
L2 5c Slab, (From the belay there is an 8m walk to the next bit of rock)
L3 6a+ Sustained wall, belay close to the pine
L4 6b Varied wall. From the belay. (Bon Voyage crosses over to the left at the belay.)
L5 6a+ Sustained wall, (ignore the double bolt and chain belay after 15m) then a fine diedre (crack)
L6 6a Easy traverse to the right (5c), then a thin move (6a), then easier until the belay (cable around a pine)
L7 6a+ Last pitch with an athletic move

Descent 30min

By foot.
Go up slightly to the right to reach a path leading rightwards (looking up).
Follow this path which passes under several climbing areas (Afrique - Gietroz), descend an easy gully (fixed rope to help) before curving back rightwards (looking down) to pass near the start of "Cacao Girls" and "Autoroute Blanche". Follow the path on the right leading to the summer holiday building, seen during the approach.

remarks

One of the latest routes to be opened at Barberine (pitch 1 bolted in 2015), which is proving to be very popular and already a classic of the area !
Very well bolted. Comfortable stances, nearly all with double bolt and chain

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

13 quickdraws

external_resources

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