Petit Capucin : Valeria Gully

Petit Capucin : Valeria Gully


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: goulotte

quality: medium


TD-   4+  M3+    II    P2 


elevation min/max : 3150 m / 3613 m

height_diff_up: 450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 3300 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




Gian-Carlo Grassi and Valéria Rudatis, 26 June 1987


The gully gives good and varied climbing. Despite facing E, it is protected from the sun by the ridge between Pte Adolphe Rey and Roi de Siam.

Approach 1h30 to 2h

From the Aiguille du Midi, go down the ridge and cross the snow basin southwards towards the col between the Gros Rognon and the Pte Lachenal, (or go directly to the col if staying at the Cosmiques hut.) Pass under the SE face of the Pte Lachenal and the foot of the Pyramide du Tacul. Go up the glacier between the Pyramide du Tacul and the Pte Adolphe Rey, (exposed to serac fall,) to the foot of the Germain Gully situated between the Petite Capucin and the Pointe Adolphe Rey, (see photo above.)
From the Torino hut, go over the Col des Flambeaux and head NE towards the E ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey, crossing a heavily crevassed zone on the way. Go up the glacier between the Pyramide du Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey as described above.


L1 30m Cross the bergschrund, (sometimes steep,) and go up the Germain Gully, (55°). Spike belay on the true left.
L2 30m Continue up the gully (55°, with a short,steeper). Spike belay on the true left or belay on bolts with a chain, also on the true left and to the right of the obvious ice line of Chippendale Gully, (sometimes difficult to reach and slightly off route.)
L3 45m Continue in the gully for about 20m (55°) then take the obvious gully on the right (65°). Bolts and chain on the true right,
L4 55m Continue up the gully (65°) until the angle eases a bit and the gully broadens with however, some narrow sections (55°). Bolts and chain on the true right.
L5 55m Continue in the gully (55°),to where it separates into two narrow gullies. Belay on bolts with chain on the true right, at the foot of the left hand gully, (taken by Valeria, Chippendale goes up the right hand one.)
L6 55m Climb the left hand gully, mostly on ice, but may have some mixed, fairly sustained passages. (70-80°, with a section at 85°). Bolts and chain on the true right.
L7 60m Continue up the gully (a passage at 85°, awkward if dry) to reach to reach the broader gully coming down from the col between Roi de Siam and the Petit Capucin, (3613m on the map). Belay on bolts with chain at the col.
Abseil back down the gully


The glacier between the Pyramide du Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey is very exposed to serac fall. Do not hang about here. Gear up near the bergschrund.
P1 et P2 can be done in one pitch, if the bergschrund is not too awkward.
All the belays points, (except the first, optional spike belay,) are on two bolts linked with a chain.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


2×60 m ropes.
Set of wires and small/medium friends.
Some short and medium ice screws.


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