Cogne - Valeille : Lillaz Gully

Cogne - Valeille : Lillaz Gully


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Associated waypoints

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  • Escursionista - ESC10 - Valle di Cogne - Gran Paradiso



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: great


D+   4  M4+    II    P2 


elevation min/max : 1600 m / 2100 m

height_diff_up: 600 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

slope: 90°




Approach 1h, +400m

Park at the end of the village, at the start of the ski de fond. Follow the ski de fond track on the true right bank of the river and after several hairpin bends go up to the foot of the icefall. It is the first you see on the left-hand side, (true right bank,) an ice runnel in the line of a large gully.


P1: 30 m, 70°, with a short section of 80°-85°,to a large, jammed boulder. There is a bolt in the boulder but it is recommended to continue to the left of the boulder (mixed M3), to a better belay, (3 bolts,) a little higher on the left.
P2 and P3: Go up the gully (35° for 100 m) to the foot of the ice runnel. Belays possible on the left and right in the gully.
P4: 30 m, 70° with some sections of 80°, Belay on the right.
P5: 45 m, wall at 85°, belay on the right. The runnel divides into two at this point.
P6: (left branch) : 30 m. Short vertical wall (90°). The ice becomes thinner, traverse leftwards, (broken rock,) to a snow slope before tree roots help to reach the forest. M4, exposed.
P6: (right branch) : 35 m. The runnel becomes very thin, 75° then the ice disappears. Good mixed climbing, (2 pegs,) M4+.
P7: 40 m, branches, frozen earth and a bit of rock to finish this great route.


Follow the red marks on the trees to reach the Loie lake path (1h)
It is also possible to abseil back down the route.


The gully does not get any sun so the ice is usually good.
Very near to the car park, the 400m height gain is quickly done.

Eating/Sleeping possibility
Bar Licone
Via Bourgeois, 60
11012 Cogne
Tel: (39) 0165 74 160

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


Minimum 6 ice screws.
Rock protection gear for the final pitch


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