Aiguilles Marbrées : Traverse

Aiguilles Marbrées : Traverse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge, corridor

quality: medium

Rating

PD     II    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3335 m / 3535 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

slope: 55°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Another of the fun, half day routes near to the Torino hut. Ideal for practising moving over unstable ground in crampons. The route needs snow, so probably best avoided in mid-summer.

Approach 35mins

From the up station of the Skyway Montebianco cable car, reach the upper terrace of new Torino hut (lift and tunnel).
From this point, reach the glacier, aim for the Pointe de Marbres and pass it on the left, main track for the Dent du Geant. Leave this track and go up towards the Col de Rochefort.

Route 2h

Start where the rocks of the NE ridge meet the snow. If the crack is followed, one or two friends are useful, but this is easily avoided on the left. Keep going up the NE ridge with one or two detours on the Italian side to where this ridge joins the main ridge after a level section. From here, turn right to follow the main ridge to the summit, (5 mins). Descend back the same way and continue traversing the main ridge, weaving past some pinnacles and passing above some snow couloirs descending to the right. Eventually you arrive at the top of a little gully with a good in-situ abseil point. A 25m abseil brings you to the glacier. (Careful of the bergschrund which opens up typically by the end of June.)

Descent 25mins

A simple walk back to the Torino hut but be careful not to go to far to the left (S) cornices.

Note

The traverse can also be done from S to N. However, the gullies giving access to the ridge are often devoid of snow and very loose in summer and may make the climb AD rather than PD. Likewise the bergshrund may pose problems.

remarks

The warden in the Torino hut recommends N-S and has set up the abseil point accordingly. This way is safer.
Traditionally the French climb this route S-N. Aesthetically pleasing as the traverse then ends at the highest point.
The route is probably best done when it is cold and there is a lot of snow. This is particularly true if you use the gullies for a S-N traverse.
In their selected climbs book, Laroche and Lelong grade the route F. This might be the case in ideal, (snowy,) conditions.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

A few friends or nuts if the starting crack is climbed.
50m rope, (or 2×25 m)

external_resources

Sommets du Mont-Blanc, Laroche Lelong, Glenat 2010

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