Le Clocher du Brévent : Crakoukass

Le Clocher du Brévent : Crakoukass

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
6b > 5b

  A0    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2150 m / 2398 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

orientations

E W S N

description

9 pitches with a possibility to escape after nearly every pitch.
3 distinct sections: the Clocher then 2 pinnacles, linked by walking.

Approach 20mins

Take the téléphérique to the top of the Brévent. Descend the piste, passing through the gap until an electric pylon, where you can spot the Clocher, (an obvious pinnacle). Walk down the path.
You pass under the broken line of buttresses taken by La Somone. There is an artificial wall built some way up on the right of Somone, (looking upwards.) To the right of this again is a more impressive buttress leading up to the Clocher, that is before a rock buttress that comes all the way down to the path/piste. The first 4 pitches go up this impressive buttress.

Route

L1 5a The start is clearly visible from the path, slightly on the left. Climb up a steep slab with good flake holds. (Possible variation start to the right , 5c)
L2 5a A fairly steep buttress.
L3 5a A nice chimney pitch, a separate rock needle is on the left, (with bolts.) Bridge against this to climb the boulder on the right. Belay on the right hand pinnacle. This monolith can be bypassed to avoid the abseil, but misses out on good climbing.

10m abseil to the foot of the monolith.

L4 5b Short corner to gain an easy rib with a belay ledge at the end.

Option 1:

L5 6b or A0 Layback a crack then a steep slab on the right.
L6 Easy linking pitch.

Option 2: Follow another line of bolts (1 move of 5c+) left of the slab to arrive directly at the abseil point at the top of pitch 6

20m abseil

Option 3: From the top of P4 it is possible to walk off on the left.

100m+ walk to reach the 1st pinnacle, (the one well to the right).

L7 5a Sustained pitch
L8 4c+ Goes diagonally rightwards to reach the highest point.

Scramble down and the left to an easy gully (grade 2) which leads to the foot of the 2nd pinnacle.
(This pinnacle is to the left of and slightly higher than the previous pinnacle.)

L9 5b Nice steep slab and crack pitch

Descent

Easily walk off to the Brevent piste and then back up to the telepherique in 15mins.

remarks

  • Homogeneous at 5b except for one pitch (6b/A0) which can be avoided.
  • Training route, not committing and well bolted.
  • It is possible to escape at any time.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • A sling is useful for pitch 4.

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