Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : Voie Georges

Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : Voie Georges

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way, loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD-  
5c > 5c

    I    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1750 m / 2406 m

height_diff_up: 650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 280 m

difficulties_height: 2100 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_crampons

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 349 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1h30

From Montenvers follow the path and ladders to the Mer de Glace. The old way was to go up this until level with the junction with the Lechaux glacier. Since the drop in the level of the glacier it is now advisable to approach from above. Take the Envers hut path to between two small streams, (cairn). A faint path descends to a geodesic mast (triangulation point). The abseils start from here. The route itself starts below and just to the right of a large overhang.

Route

P1 : 5c – The start is shared with the route "pilier des Rhodos", (which goes up to the right) to reach a ledge under the obvious overhang. 5b (1 move of 5c or A0). 60m to reach the ledge. (If not belay just before the 5c move.) (NB the 2nd pitch of "20000 Lieues Sous la Niege" starts at the left hand end of this ledge.)
P2 : 5c+ - Finger jamming and a mantleshelf at 5c+ (or A0, bolt) to reach a slab which goes at 4a/b.
P3 : 5c – Start with a crack then slab climbing at 5c, 2 bolts, bold.

The rest of the route, (about 4 pitches,) goes at 4b/c. Above the fourth belay do not take the slab on the left, (bolts,) but go straight up past a little overhang.

Descent

From the summit rejoin the path from the Envers Hut leading back to Montenvers, or go left at the top of the route to get more directly to the Envers hut.

remarks

The low altitude means the route can be climbed from spring to autumn. In the sun for most of the day, (sun glasses, cream etc!)
The difficulties are restricted to the first 3 pitches, the rest is homogeneous at 4b/c.
Slabs and cracks. The belays are bolted, as are the slabs and crux moves with some pegs in the cracks. Extra protection needed.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Rope 2x50. nut, friends (small sizes), slings, helmet, 10-12 quickdraws.
Crampons and ice axe/ski poles for the Mer de Glace.

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