Aiguille de Rochefort : Rochefort ridge

Aiguille de Rochefort : Rochefort ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

AD  
3b > 3b

    II 

heights

elevation min/max : 3371 m / 4001 m

height_diff_up: 800 m

height_diff_difficulties: 600 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

One of the great classics. Also possible to extend the outing to include the Dome de Rochefort

Approach

From the Torino hut (3371m, access possible from the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car), cross the Geant plateau passing to the left of the Aiguilles Marbrées.
Climb up the snow slopes to a little gully on the left, which leads to a spur giving access to the actual ridge.

Route

Climb up the spur, (keeping to the left for the first third,) alternatively climbing snow slopes and easy rock, fairly unstable. Climb up to the base of the S face of the Dent du Geant. “la Salle à manger”.
Follow the snowy ridge, (airy), passing the Point 3933m. A belay facilitates a descent of 20 to 30m, depending on the conditions. One then overcomes a rocky outcrop by keeping to the right (3b). At the foot of the Aiguille de Rochefort, the final climb (3b) starts on the right in a gully.
For the second pitch, start in a gully slightly on the left.
Pitch 3 is on the ridge (Belays equipped with slings if you chose to abseil on return.)

Descent

By the same route

remarks

The rock is fairly broken. Take care not to knock stuff off onto the parties below.
Rapid parties might be able to combine this route with an ascent of the Dent du Geant, having allowed the rock to warm up during the traverse.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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