Petit Capucin : E face - Gervasutti route

Petit Capucin : E face - Gervasutti route

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5c > 5c

    III    P3  E4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3371 m / 3693 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the Torino Refuge, cross the Col des Flambeaux and enter the Combe Maudit, passing under the N face of the Tour Ronde.

Once passed the majority of crevasses, approach the Petit Capucin and access the couloir to the right, next to the Pic Adolphe Rey. Climb this couloir to the breche (100m, very loose initially) then cross onto the N face and traverse steep, icy rocks for 50m to the start of the route. (45min to bergshrund, 1h-1h30 to the start of the route).

Route

L1 3b Gain the chimney and follow it to a platform beneath a very steep chimney with chockstones (50m)
L2 5c Climb the chimney (several pitons) to another platform and belay on the right (30m)
L3 5a Climb the buttress tending leftwards until you reach the base of a system of cracks (30m). Can belay here or continue another 20m up the cracks to a another belay.
L4 5a Continue up the cracks to a corner on the right (30m). Climb the corner to a ledge (10m)
L5 4b From the ledge, step up and right and follow a flakey groove up and to the left (50m)
L6-7 4b Pick any one of a number of lines to the summit. (110m)

Descent

From the summit, follow the ridge easily towards the Grand Capucin. 10m from the end, descend a blocky chimney to an abseil point. 7-8 abseils (2×50 m ropes) gain the glacier at the base of the Breche du Carabinier (watch out for falling rocks) (1h from summit)

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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