Pointe du Tuet : Les Copains d'Abord

Pointe du Tuet : Les Copains d'Abord

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

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Rating

D+  
6a+ > 5cA0

    II  X2    P1  E4 

heights

elevation min/max : 997 m / 2037 m

height_diff_up: 1000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 500 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The rock is good and the length and situation make this route a classic even if the quality of the climbing is not always the best, (lots of vegetation.)

Approach 1h to 1h15

From Samoens follow the road signposted Les Allemands.
From the parking at Crêt, (the second carpark i.e not the one one just after you cross a bridge, but the one after a series of hairpins and with parking on both sides of the road), follow the Folly refuge path, passing the Crêt chalets. Continue along the path which contours, passing by the foot of the Tuet climbing area and then joining the path coming up from the lower parking. Continue upwards until a cairn and faint track on the left, circa 1160m, easy to miss. (If you get to a little bridge crossing the Landes stream then you have gone about 400m too far.) The faint path passes between rock bands to a slab with bolts,(1230m.)

Route 6h

L1 6a+ Faint runnels (cannelures) with a smooth (crux) section at the first bolt, (the pitch is 5b if aided here)
L2 4c Easier angled runnels
L3 4b A bit grassy
L4 5b A nice wall with a mini roof
A grassy ramp ; follow a path which comes up against a rock slab, climb up a little to the left to a good platform, belay.
L5 5b Walk back a bit to reach the belay
L6 5b/5c Pleasant wall then a thin slab to the belay
L7 4b Short, traversing to the right.
A linking section up a large ramp with lots of trees. Follow the path which goes upwards at first and then traverses sharply to the right. At a little junction, go left just to the foot of a rock barrier, which you follow to the left to a belay with two bolts.
(N.B. There is a tendency to end up too far to the left. You need to be well to the right of the end of the last pitch)
L8 5a A big rightwards, ascending traverse. Belay to the left on a good terrace.
L9 5c Superb pitch on a slab and a wall with plenty of holds
L10 5b Traverse rightwards then straight up. Belay on a good terrace.
L11 4b Straight up and then easily traverse to the right. Belay below a little wall, (a bolt and a thread)
L12 5b Rising rightwards traverse then a steep wall on the left
L13 5c Short, steep passage of 5c and then a delicate traverse rightwards on a little slab
L14 5c+/6a Rising traverse on a slab with delicate friction moves. The bolts are well spaced and so aiding is not obvious. However the pitch can be made easier (5b) by traversing horizontally rightwards to a flake instead of following the bolts. It is also possible to tension traverse.
L15 5b Great pitch, with a difficult slab move near the start.
L16 5b Continue every upwards, bit broken in places.
L17 4c A short pitch, not too steep with amazing runnels. The top of the climb is at 1730m.

Descent 1h30 to 2h

From the last belay go straight up the grassy slopes to an obvious gully on the left. A second, much shorter and rockier gully leads to easier angled terrain, (80m vertical height gain). From here follow a faint path which contours the hillside for several hundreds of metres, (some cairns), until it turns back on itself and starts to descend, cairn visible about 30m below. (It is easy to initially miss the start of the descent as a path continues to traverse for about another 75m before coming to an end, at which point people walk back again, hence the well worn path!) Follow the descending path, some cairns, for what seems a very long way. In the lower sections the path tends to trend rightwards. Finally you join a much better path with red paint markings, just above the Cret chalets. Follow this path back to the carpark.

(From the top of the gullies it is possible to go to the “summit” and back by some grassy slopes with occasional, vague paths. The true summit is protected by a steep col (breche) which would involve difficult climbing on mixed rock and grass. 150m height gain; half an hour there and back.)

Follow a good path which goes horizontally for 150m to the west, ( cairns and red marks occasionally). The path descends finally towards the forest. It is sometimes quite steep and slippy, but generally well marked. Around 1500m (cairn) the path turns to the right. Follow this to the Cret chalets and the good track back to the car park

remarks

Route not very steep: mainly on slabs and runnels. Very good rock well equipped, though the bolts are well spaced. Nuts not really necessary. Faces south so hot in mid summer. The first half of the route is generally easy angled with passages of grassy and wooded ramps.
On the second part of the route the belay bolts are not linked, take some suitable slings.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

12 quickdraws, 50m rope (but 2 x 50 if you fail to complete)

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