Pic de Jallouvre : Manque Un Mètre

Pic de Jallouvre : Manque Un Mètre

{{detailsCtrl.documentService.document.associations.images[0].locales[0].title}}

Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr - es

Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

D+  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1540 m / 2408 m

height_diff_up: 450 m

height_diff_difficulties: 280 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Probably the best route of the crag!

Topo : accès au Jallouvre, Colombière et Dzérat
Topo : accès au Jallouvre, Colombière et Dzérat

Approach : approx. 20min

From parking at the quarry below the Col de la Colombière, go up onto the earth mound on the right and follow the path, SW, to its end. Take a horizontal path, which goes along the base of the crag.
In the distance you will see 5-10 pine trees; about 20m before these trees, you will see a rock spur of rock and the first few bolts. ("M 1 M" i.e. the abbreviated name is marked at the foot of the climb).
It is also possible to park as for the via ferrata du Jallouvre.

Topo : Jallouvre, Face S
Topo : Jallouvre, Face S

Route

L1 5b Vertical and a bit strenuous (2 belays side by side).
L2 6a Straight up then an awkward traverse to the left to the edge, (the crux). Straight up again. (There is a more comfortable belay on a good terrace some 5m higher and to the right of the first one you come to.)
L3 5a The belay is on a terrace to the left.
L4 4a The pitch starts on the left, an easy angled slab with flowers in the pockets.
L5 6a One move (at the end), fantastic pitch of runnels (cannelures), then a smooth slab for the last 5m (the crux can be "frigged"). The belay is not very comfortable but again more comfortable one can be found on a terrace to the right, (clipping the first belay will help the second’s rope.)
L6 5b A corner, then a slab then grass. The belay is above on the right.
L7 5b A slabby traverse beneath overhanging rock, then climb up an overhanging corner with good holds.

Descent

  • Abseil down the route, all the belays are equipped with a chain. The last two pitches can be done in one abseil of 50m) ;
  • Or by going upwards, possible in trainers if the grass is dry: from the last belay go up rightwards to a gully, continue upwards to an overhanging barrier of rock which is avoided by going along to the left, (passing besides a wonderful, easy angled slab.) Continue to climb straight up and locate the upper part of the South ridge and a gap on the left. Take the easiest line to the gap and reach the return path and then the cable for the via ferrata (1940m). Follow this and descend into the combe below the Col du Rasoir. Take the right hand path back to the parking.

remarks

The belays/abseil points are all double bolted, (except the penultimate one.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

50m rope essential

Comments

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

{{::post['created_at'] | amUtc | amLocal | amTimeAgo}}
  • eu
  • it
  • ca
  • de