Pointe Centrale du Sapey : Délit de fuite

Pointe Centrale du Sapey : Délit de fuite

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3431OT - Lac d'Annecy
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut, return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

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Rating

TD-  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 980 m / 1755 m

height_diff_up: 775 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

difficulties_height: 1400 m

Access

height_diff_access: 420 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Eleven pitches of good and varied climbing at a homogenous grade in a pleasant mountain setting.

Approach

Follow the track that goes to the Col de la Buffaz and passes the Grosse Pierre chalets. Take a good path to the left, (tourist signpost for walkers). At a junction in the woods of three paths, take the first to the right. Then keep your eyes open! to spot on the left a faint path which climbs directly up through the woods beneath the cliffs and then up a scree slope. At the level of the rocks go rightwards along the path at the foot of the cliff.
“Delit de Fuite” is after a single pitch/top roping section and before a cave. The name of the route is painted in orange on the rock.

Route

L1 5c Nice wall, sustained
L2 5b Traverse to the right, two awkward moves
L3 6a (or 5c/A0) A bouldering move
L4 Traverse to the right along ledges to belay at a pine
L5 5c A nice wall
L6 5b Climb the nice runnels, (cannelures), then a grassy ramp
L7 5c A pitch up a crack to the left of a little pillar
L8 5c+ A pitch to the left up runnels, flakes and slab climbing
L9 6a In the line of a pillar, some moves of 6a, a little overhang to start.
L10 Along a ledge
L11 5c Magnificent, sustained slab, 45m
L12 5b+ A zig zagging pitch up slabs and short steeper sections
L13 5b+ Exit on runnels to arrive at the final belay

Descent

  1. It is possible to abseil down the route, but be careful about loose stones if there are others climbing.
  2. Descend by the “Couloir du Freu" between the central Pointe du Sapey and the Aretes du Sapey. From the top of the route follow the ridge to the left (SW), then cairns and a faint path on the NW-facing side for 15-20 minutes. This leads to the Col du Freu (1621m) which permits crossing over to the SE-facing side. There is a cairn at the start of the steep, grassy couloir/gully. Descend this, being careful with stonefall, to the scree slope and the approach route to the foot of the climb. This descent takes about two hours so take suitable footwear.

remarks

Very well equipped

The belay bolts are good but only joined together with old, thin slings.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Good shoes for the descent

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