Aiguille d'Entrèves : SW >> NE traverse

Aiguille d'Entrèves : SW >> NE traverse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: traverse, loop_hut
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

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5a > 4c

    I    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 3371 m / 3600 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 100 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

route_history

L. Enzenhofer, L.V. Hibbler and R. Weitzenrock, 22 july 1913

description

The traverse of the Aiguille d'Entrèves can be done in either direction, but the going SW to NE (with a move of 4b in ascent,) seems more logical.

Aiguille d'Entrèves
Aiguille d'Entrèves

Approach 1.30h

From the Torino hut ago NW to the col des Flambeaux. Descend to the W and pass under the N face of the Aiguille de Toule. Continue W a little towards the Tour Ronde, then climb up due S to the col d'Entrèves.

Route 2 hr

Go up the ridge, very easy at the start, passing sometimes on the E side sometimes on the W side. Just after a down climb at a little gap, (turn the ridge on the right which is easier than down climbing on the left, which nonetheless is very enjoyable,) climb the other side by a short passage of 3b. The route becomes more airy: you keep to the crest of the ridge. Then there is a move of 4b, (a sling in place to pull on,) and some bolts a little higher up, which leads to the summit

See also the route description for the traverse NE-SW, http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54394/en/aiguille-d-entreves-traversee-ne-sw .

Descent 1hr + 1hr to the Torino

From the summit climb down a system of easy angled cracks, but not always easy to protect, (use nuts, possible to make an abseil, bolts in place.) Continue down easy, mixed ground, along a horizontal section before climbing down broken rocks to reach a snow slope. You rejoin the approach path by going down the NE snow slope, (35-40º,) towards the foot of the Aig du Toule.

remarks

A short rock route, (mixed early in the season,) possible to do in half a day.

Possible to bivouac just before the col des Flambeaux, or at the foot of the Tour Ronde.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Perhaps some nuts for descending the cracks

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