Pointe Adolphe Rey : Salluard route

Pointe Adolphe Rey : Salluard route


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: fine


6a > 5c

    II    P2+ 


elevation_max: 3535 m

height_diff_up: 650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 3200 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear


lift_access : yes




Toni Busi and Franco Salluard, 6 September 1951


This climb is done in a day, but you should not dawdle too much and think about the return climb to Aiguille du Midi. It is possible to do this route even if it is cool because the route faces mostly SE and you get the sun during the entire climb.


Approach 1h30

From Aiguille du Midi, descend the ridge completely to the E until the altitude of 3670m. From there, pass the bergschrund and cross the Col du Midi plateau togo between the Grand Rognon and Pointe Lachenal. Then descend (S) the Géant glacier towards Pyramide du Tacul and Pointe Adolphe Rey. The base of this point joins the glacier by 2 parallel ridges forming pillars, the ENE ridge on the right and the ESE spur on the left.


Start below the ESE spur. Go up a snow slope on the right to then reach the ridge by steps. First pitch in UK-4a /US-5.5. Then 2 pitches in F5b/c, the first pitch with an overhang, the second with a crack (several pitons). Go right towards the upper part, cross a wall then a dihedral on the left (F4c and UK-5a /US-5.8) to reacha terrace. Climb a chimney and pass the overhang on the left (UK-5a /US-5.8). Traverse to the left to climb some boulders and a small wall. Continue easily until large ledges via a tilted slab. A variant after the overhang traverses to the right and climbs a chimney on the N face (UK-5a /US-5.8). Climb a beautiful vertical wall crossed by cracks, (F4c and UK-5a /US-5.8). The following 40m pitch makes it possible to cross a wall in UK-5a /US-5.8. Then go diagonally to the left and pass through a niche. Continue on the left and go up an dihedral on the right of a chimney (F4c). A pitch of F3c leads to a notch beneath the large gendarme where the ENE and ESE spurs join. Continue either on this same face via a broad crack (UK-4a /US-5.5), or the N face to reach the top of this gendarme (F4c). Descend 2m on the S side then traverse on the left until a dihedral that you climb (UK-5a /US-5.8). Traverse under the ridge via a tilted slab then take this ridge to the summit.


Climb back down the ascent route until the first notch. Make a 30m rappel of the S face then descend on the right until the edge of a roof. Make a 45m abseil down a deep chimney until a large ledge. A second abseil of 30m leads to the foot of the gully coming down from the notch between Petit Capucin and Pointe Adolphe Rey.

It is possible to escape from the route in several places by abseilling from the belays of the Bettembourg/Thivierge route.


Be careful when passing under the seracs between Pyramide du Tacul and Pointe Adolphe Rey.
A total height gain of 1000m, broken down as follows: 100m to get to the foot of the route, 300m of route and 650m for the return to Aiguille du Midi. Difficulties are sustained throughout the climb.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


2×50 m rope, 1 set of friends and 1 set of nuts, 10 quickdraws, slings.


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