Mont Maudit : N face, Normal route (+ E ridge)

Mont Maudit : N face, Normal route (+ E ridge)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: glacier

quality: medium

Rating

PD+     II    P2 
4.3 / E2
D+ / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 3842 m / 4465 m

height_diff: +1250 m / -1250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1000 m

difficulties_height: 3600 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Mainly glacier climbing to this 4000m summit, which lies between Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mt Blanc. It can be climbed as part of the ascent of Mt Blanc by the "Trois Monts" route" or as a beautiful summit in its own right.

Approach From the Aig du Midi lift or, in order to make an early start, from the Cosmiques hut

Route

Cross the Col du Midi plateau towards the Triangle du Tacul paasing below the Cosmiques hut and close to the Col du Midi. Climb up, trending rightwards, to the shoulder of the Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4080m, usually well tracked. The first bergschrund may be problematical, the sewcond usually easier. Move quickly beneath the seracs. (2h from the Cosmiques hut)
From here it is possible to continue on the Normal route of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to its summit, (bit of mixed at the end), returning the same way to the shoulder.
From the shoulder go towards the col Maudit 4035m. From this col, go due W to pass below some large seracs. Once past these, go up Mont Maudit's N face to about 4250m. Head due W again for the col du Mont Maudit.
Often you come across steep climbing for several metres at a bergschrund. After this climb a snow slope (40-45°) to rocks and the possibility of a good belay. The next pitch leads to the col where often there is a large wooden anchor stake.
From the col there are two options:
1. Follow the NW ridge to the left by snow slopes and easy mixed sections directly to the summit,
2. From behind the col, contour due S and, once past some rocks on the left, go up the W facing slopes to the summit.

Variant : Finish by the E ridge
On the N face of Mont Maudit traverse to the left to the shoulder, "Epaule du Maudit" and then climb the corniced E ridge (finish of the Kuffner route) to the summit.
Alternatively, join the ridge lower down directly from the Col Maudit, climbing two rock bands, (mixed,) to reach the snowy, corniced ridge where it joins the Kuffner route

Descent 3h to the Aig du Midi

The descent by one of the two ascent routes. From the col du Mont Maudit, It is possible to make two short abseils to the bergschrund.

remarks

Most of the route is above 4000m and faces N.
1000m of height gain in two steps, 570m for the Tacul, descend 100m then 430m for the Maudit. Another 250m back up to the Aig du Midi.
The steepest section at the bergschrund on the Maudit and the 50m above.
Reaching the summit by the E ridge and descending by the N face makes an interesting round trip.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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