Tour Verte : Le Piège

Tour Verte : Le Piège

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD  
6a+ > 6a

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2500 m / 2760 m

height_diff_up: 260 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Michel Piola and Jean-Marie Schenkel, july 25th 1984

description

A very direct, steep and varied line. One of the nearest routes to the Envers hut. Gives a short day.

Approach 5min

From the hut, take the ladders to the S then after after 50m climb to the right towards the Tour Verte. Take the furthest right of the three pillars, with a superb, 8/10cm wide, square cut crack. (Broad ledge just underneath.)

Topo Envers des Aiguilles : Climbing routes on Tour Verte (Le Piège, Pasang, Pont des soupirs)
Topo Envers des Aiguilles : Climbing routes on Tour Verte (Le Piège, Pasang, Pont des soupirs)

Ascent

L1 6a+ Start on the right (5c) then traverse to the left (bolt) and up the jamming crack (6a+). 6b if you start from the bottom.
L2 6a Slab then layback up a thin crack
L3 6a Ledges then broken rock on the right
L4 6a+ Cracks and corners, (right then left then right on an orange slab to avoid an overhang).
L5 5c Corner then a little roof.
L6 5b Slab to the left. Lots of possibilies.

Descent

Abseil down the route, well equipped, 2 bolts and a ring.

remarks

Adventure climbing "sanitized" with good belays and bolts on the "unprotectable" slabs.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Set of friends (small to medium) and a set of wires.

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