Mont Dolent : Arête Gallet en traversée

Mont Dolent : Arête Gallet en traversée

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

AD+     III    P4 
4.2 / E4
AD+ / S4

heights

elevation min/max : 1593 m / 3823 m

height_diff_up: 2230 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1156 m

slope: 45-50°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach to the Bivouac de la Maye

From the Fouly Village cross the Plaine de l’A Neuve towards the angle formed by the cliffs of the Grand Lui and the Combe des Fonds (point 1642m on the IGN map). A path, faint at the start, climbs up the slope towards the Sur la Lys, then goes around the Tête de la Maye and up the moraines from the Dolent glacier to reach the bivouac de la Maye (2657m).

Dolent : arête Gallet. Pointe Allobrogia.
Dolent : arête Gallet. Pointe Allobrogia.

Route Arête Gallet

From the Maye bivouac, go up westwards the true left bank of the Dolent Glacier, passing a crevasse zone at 2800m, and at about 3000m, just before the large seracs, go up on the right to reach the Gallet ridge (3160m, several ways possible).
Variant: Instead of going to the ridge, continue westwards on the glacier to reach the ridge higher up. The glacier is very chaotic in this area, so this variant is not always possible.

At the level of a little plateau, 3350m, climb a S facing couloir, (on the true left bank of the glacier), which leads to a suspended glacier on the NE side of the Dolent (approx. 200m 40/45°). At the top of the couloir, continue by a narrow, rock ridge (3b) to reach the glacier a little bit higher.
From the snowy shoulder (ENE ridge) traverse NW under a rock island to cross a bergschrund and climb onto NE face of the Dolent.
Some mixed climbing leads to the snow ridge of the Dolent, and so to the summit Virgin.

Le mont Dolent itinéraire depuis le petit col Ferret
Le mont Dolent itinéraire depuis le petit col Ferret

Descent

By the Normal Route:
From the summit, follow the S ridge to reach a little col at 3774 m. Descend on the S face until the glacier, 3580m, avoid the bergshrund on the left under the Grépillon ridge.
Go down Pré de Bar glacier, (mainly the true left side,) to the Fiorio bivouacs at 2724m and follow the path which traverses round to the Petit Col Ferret, 2490m. Follow the good path to La Fouly.

For skiers :
From the summit descend a steep slope to the W of Mont Grépillon. When the angle eases, put on your skis and go down the Pré de Bar glacier, (on its true left side until about 2800 m,) then traverse the slopes to reach the Fiorio bivouacs, 2724m. From there descend to the SE towards Point 2513, (Swiss map, then traverse to the Petit Col Ferret, 2490m). From the col descend the Combe des Fonds to La Fouly.

remarks

• The final summit face is often ice for about 150/200 m.
• Ascent faces E then N once on the ridge.
• Descent faces SSE then N in the Combe des Fonds
• Ski Grade: 4.2/E4 if you ski from the summit, if not 3.2/E2

gear

• 2 technical ice axes, 3/4 ice screws, 4 quickdraws, helmet.

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