Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de droite : Contrefort de droite - Robin Wood

Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de droite : Contrefort de droite - Robin Wood

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop, return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2380 m / 2570 m

height_diff_up: 190 m

height_diff_difficulties: 120 m

difficulties_height: 2450 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 70 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 15min

From the top station of the Index chairlift, identify the lower, right buttress of the Floria. (Above a little lake which is not visible from the top station.) Follow the track NNE towards the col des Crochues and reach the base of the cliff in 15 mins. The route starts from a little terrace, a bit above and to the right of the lowest point, at some greenish slabs with "Petzl" bolts. The name is painted on the rock in white. There are two bolted lines to the left "Les Dalles Brunes" 6a and "La Plage" 5b and two to the right, (both with loose rock since 2011), "La Lampe d'Allardin" 6a and "Athina" 5b.

Route 2h

L1 5b 40m Up the steepish slab then easier angled section with no bolts for 15-20m until it steepens again (bolt) before arriving at the small stance.
L2 5b 30m Darkish wall, fairly steep and sustained.
L3 5b 30m Start by going diagonally right to take an overhang at its weakest point, (huge holds over the top.) Continue up easier to a belay 7m below an overhang with 3 bolts.
L4 6a 40m Climb the overhang on good holds and protection, finishing above at 4c.

Descent 30min

From the top of the route, make a level traverse 70-80m to the right, (looking up) to then abseil 22m. Descend a faint path, (snow in early season) on the left hand side (facing the valley) of the crag. It is possible to avoid the abseil by traversing upwards shortly before reaching the abseil point.

remarks

  • Faces the sun
  • Possible to avoid pitch 4 by traversing to the left and finishing in 2 pitches of 4c.
  • Can be quite popular, (near the lift,) so abseilling down the route not normally to be recommended.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

8-9 quickdraws, (max 6 bolts per pitch + the belays)

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