Punta Innominata : E ridge

Punta Innominata : E ridge


Application mobile

View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr - it


  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium


4a > 4a

    III    P4 


elevation min/max : 2590 m / 3731 m

height_diff_up: 1139 m


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




This route is in a superb setting on the south side of Mont Blanc, away from the crowds. There are magnificent views of the Peuterey Ridge, (Aiguilles Noire et Blanche,) Dames Anglaise and the Frêney pillar. It is also a good, long route in its own right.


From the Monzino hut follow a faint path leading to the Châtelet glacier.


Go onto the glacier and follow it towards an obvious snow cone below the face you can see of the Punta Innominata.
Go up the cone, pass the bergschrund, (changes each year,) and climb a gully with some in-situ gear. The gully leads to some scree which is underneath an characteristic oval snow patch, (visible from the hut.)
Go up the scree keeping to right of the snow patch then turn to the right in the direction of a snow gully, which leads to a little col on the E ridge of the Innominata.
Follow the ridge, either on its crest or on the Frêney side. When the ridge gets to some obvious pinnacles, traverse to the left, (on the S face,) to gain a point not far from the fore-summit
From the fore-summit, reach the summit by following the crest of the ridge.


By the same route.

Alternative descent by the Brouillard Glacier.
From the summit, continue on by down climbing for 30m, then make two abseils (40+20m) down to the Col du Freney.
From the col, go down the Brouillard Glacier, keeping to the edge of the S ridge. Get onto the moraine of the Châtelet glacier at the foot of the S ridge. Attention: large open bergschunds and crevasses and often icy.


  • When combined with the descent of the Brouillard the outing becomes more complete, but a little more difficult.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.



No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

No thread yet?

Log in to post the first comment

{{::post['created_at'] | amUtc | amLocal | amTimeAgo}}
  • es
  • eu
  • ca
  • de