Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : 20'000 Lieues sous la Neige

Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : 20'000 Lieues sous la Neige

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face, pillar

quality: medium

Rating

TD  
6b > 5c

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1750 m / 2406 m

height_diff_up: 650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

difficulties_height: 2100 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_crampons

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 350 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From Montenvers follow the path and ladders to the Mer de Glace. The old way was to go up this until level with the junction with the Lechaux glacier, the base being at about 2150m. Since the drop in the level of the glacier it is now advisable to approach from above. Take the Envers hut path until between two small streams, (cairn). A faint path descends to a geodesic mast (triangulation point), where the abseils start. (The route itself starts at a ledge directly below a large overhang.)

Route

P1 : 6b (smooth and steep wall))
P2 : 5b+
P3 : 6a+ (A big pitch, 40m , placing your own protection.)
P4 : 6a
P5 : 5c
P6 : 5c
P7 : 6a (Superb flakes, placing protection for the lower half.)
P8 : 5c

Descent

Take the Envers Hut path back to Montenvers, which takes about an hour.

remarks

• Quickly in condition, spring to autumn. After heavy rain there can be a problem with seepage and small streams.
• Pitch 3 is a superb crack. For the most part the rest of the route is delicate, (friction, balance,) slab climbing.
• Some of the pitches are the full 50m.
• Slabs "polished" by glacial action.
• The slabs and belays are bolted.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

• Set of nuts and friends up to No. 3 Camalot.
• Crampons and ice axe/ski poles for the approach.

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