Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons

Dalles Inférieures de l'Envers des Aiguilles : Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut, return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD-  
6a+ > 5c

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1913 m / 2406 m

height_diff_up: 493 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 2150 m

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1h30

From Montenvers follow the path and ladders to the Mer de Glace. The old way was to go up this until level with the junction with the Lechaux glacier. Since the drop in the level of the glacier it is now advisable to approach from above. Take the Envers hut path until between two streams (cairn). A faint path descends to a geodesic mast, (triangulation point). The abseils start here. The route itself starts at the right hand side of the slabs, near the stream, and below and to the right of a large overhang(in common with the start of “Voie Georges”.)

Route

P1 : Go up a corner that slants to the right (4b).
P2 : Traverse to the right to another corner under a small overhang which is climbed on offwidths, 6a or 1pa (one point of aid.) Belay to the left.

P3 : From the belay climb the crack slightly on the left, 5b.
P4 : Continue by a nice crack/slab, 5c.

N.B. There is a variant which keeps more to the corners and requires taking an extra belay before rejoining the crack/slab.

P5 : Climb a slab on the left with a delicate section, 5c

P6 : Gain the grassy ledge, half way up the cliff, belay. Go along this ledge to the left.

P7 : Climb up a slab on the left (4c, bolts with a delicate move at 5c), leading to the foot of a corner.

P8 : Climb the corner, belaying on the left.

P9 : Take the crack straight above, starts at 6a+ or A0; the rest of the crack is 5c, with no in-situ protection except at the start. Magnificent pitch.

N.B it is possible to avoid the 6a+ near the top by following a ramp for two short pitches.

Descent

From the summit rejoin the path from the Envers Hut leading back to Montenvers, or go left at the top of the route to get more directly to the Envers hut.

remarks

The low altitude means the route can be climbed from spring to autumn. In the sun for most of the day, (sun glasses, cream etc!)
Nice slabs with cracks, never too hard but the protection, (bolts,) is well spaced. Need to place additional protection in the cracks. The belays are bolted.
Route finding can be difficult because of other routes nearby and the long distance between bolts.
This description is different to that to be found in the various guidebooks. Needs to be checked.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Set of nuts and friends.

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