Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Asia

Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Asia

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop_hut, return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c+ > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2680 m

height_diff_up: 300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 210 m

difficulties_height: 2470 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 90 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 20mn

The buttresses are clearly visible from the top of the Index Chairlift. Identify the Aiguille de la Floria and the two large ramps on the lower crag. The route begins at the foot of the lower of these two ramps. Follow the good track NNE in the direction of the top of the Floria ski tow, then a track on the left through boulders and scree to the start of the route, (which is just to the left of "Soho" 6b+.)

Route

L1 5c/6a The start is the crux (5c/6a, point of aid possible), the rest of the pitch remains interesting.
L2 5b The shortest pitch, followed by traversing the gully.
L3 5c
L4 5c
L5 5a

It is possible to climb the second tier, slightly to the left, with two easy pitches (4a then 2.) It is then possible to continue up a third tier and reach the summit of the Aiguille by Fraise des Boâtchs.

Descent

Various options:

  • From the top of the fifth pitch, traverse left and then downwards on a grassy slope, faint path, to the start of an abseil line. Three 50m abseils.
  • From the summit of the 1st and 2nd buttresses it is possible to traverse W to arrive on the Index snowfield/scree slope.
  • From the summit of the Aiguille, provided there isn’t too much snow, you can go down by way of the SW ridge: start down the north side, below the ridge, over some boulders, then traverse to the left to regain the ridge above the rock spires that dominate the upper col of the Floria. Several old abseil slings.

Piola Corner Variant (3rd Pitch)

Do the first two pitches of Asia.
Go up several metres into the gully then bear slightly to the right into the corner (6a). From the belay go 5/6 metres to the right to get back to a belay on Asia

remarks

  • Quickly in condition
  • The first pitch is the hardest, the rest of the route is steep and consistently grade F5.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

No need for nuts

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