Aiguilles Dorées - Aiguille de la Varappe : Eole danza per noi

Aiguilles Dorées - Aiguille de la Varappe : Eole danza per noi


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine


6a > 6a

    II  X1    P2  E3 


elevation min/max : 2983 m / 3519 m

height_diff_up: 540 m

height_diff_difficulties: 370 m

difficulties_height: 3150 m


glacier_gear: crampons_spring




A good climb on excellent, solid granite. All the pitches except for the first are 5c/6a. 11 pitches.


From the Trient hut (3170m), cross the Trient plateau going SW and cross the Fenêtre de Saleina. Next, go in the direction of the SW face of the Aiguille de la Varappe. A sort of triangular tower is clearly visible in the lower third of the cliff, to the left of a plumb line from the summit. The start is at a sloping corner 50m to the right of vertical line from the tower, (about 1h30-1h45).
• It is also possible to start from the Saleina hut (2691m). Follow the path down to the Saleina glacier (cairns) and go up in the direction of the Fenêtre de Suzanne (a little gap in the rocks) passing underneath the S pillar of the Aiguille de la Varappe. The route “Les Sapontins du Paradis" is clearly visible (often popular). Climb down the W side of the Fenêtre de Suzanne and go in the direction of Fenêtre de Saleina (N) to reach the start of the route. Keep fairly high along the base of the pillar, avoiding going too low on the Saleina glacier.


L1 : 4a – Corner sloping to the right, belay on a peg and a bolt.
L2 : 5c – Start with a rising traverse, to the right of some large flakes, then climb a system of corner cracks until a wide terrace. Belay on bolts.
L3 : 5c – Continue obliquely to the left, 3 bolts.
L4 : 6a – Gain the summit of a little pinnacle 4 bolts. Descend the other side of the pinnacle by a short abseil or down climbing.
L5 : 6a – Climb the obvious crack to the right of the crest of the pillar until a platform. Belay shared with "Et je suis le vent".
L6 : 6a - Traverse to the right and climb a wonderful red corner.
L7 : 6a - Walk a few metres until the SW face and go straight up , then slightly to the left to reach a corner, 3 spits.
L8 : 6a - Climb a flake above the belay then continue firstly in the corner to the left then straight up by a faint pillar, 2 bolts.
L9 : 5c – Traverse to the left to the W side of the pillar, cross over the route "La chevauchee fantastique" and climb up some cracks in the direction of a superb corner.
L10 : 6a – Climb the corner in a long pitch 2 bolts at the start then nothing, belay on the left.
L11 : 5c – Start by traversing to the right above some roofs, 2 bolts visible, go around the crest of the pillar and reach the summit by some easy flakes.


Use the abseil line on the SW face, directly under the summit. The first two abseils are mostly free hanging. Be careful not to follow the ascension line for the first two abseils but keep to the crest of the pillar, directly down the face.
After 3 abseils (2 long et 1 short), you reach in the lower third of the cliff, the slanting crack (gully) which descends the tower to the left. Down climb this to the top of the first pitch of "C'est Mozart qu'on assassine". From there a 25m abseil reaches the foot of the pillar.
3 minutes walking to arrive at the start of the route.
The longest abseil is 45 metres.


• The belays are either bolted and/or with pegs. Spare slings useful to back up the connection between the two points. Also possible to back up some of the belays with large slings.
• The route is bolted where it is difficult to place protection and at the more difficult moves.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


A selection of nuts and friends (camalot #0.3 > #3)


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