Lyskamm / Liskamm E : W >> E Traverse

Lyskamm / Liskamm E : W >> E Traverse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 284 - Mischabel
  • Swisstopo - 294 - Gressoney
  • Swisstopo - 1348 - Zermatt
  • Swisstopo - 1368 - Zermatt Süd
  • Escursionista - ESC08 - Monte Rosa - Alte valli d'Ayas e del Lys

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

AD     IV 

heights

elevation min/max : 3585 m / 4527 m

height_diff: +950 m / -1400 m

route_length: 10.68 km

height_diff_difficulties: 950 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

route_history

First ascent: 16.08.1864, Edward-N. Buxton, Leslie Stephen with guides Jakob Anderegg and Franz Biner.

description

Access

From Italy: The Quintino Sella hut : Starting at Gressoney-la-Trinité and the Colle di Bettaforca lifts.
From Switzerland: The Klein Matterhorn station

Approach

From the Klein Matterhorn: Traverse to the Ayas Hut and then to the Sella col, (acclimatization)

From the Quintino Sella Hut:
Go up the easy slopes of the Felik glacier, bypass Punta Perazzi to the E, and climb to the right by a steeper slope to the side of a small spur to reach the Felikjoch (4061m).

W Lyskamm

From the Felikjoch, go down slightly to reach the real col and follow the ridge towards Liskamm W. Go over a first snow dome and by a narrow ridge reach the summit slopes. Go up these (35 à 40°) to gain a ridge on the N side. If this is iced up it is possible to climb the rocks on the SE face

Traverse to E Lyskamm

From the W summit, follow the beautiful, airy ridge (Attention, in certain conditions this can be very delicate), some easy rocks often snowy/icy then an almost horizontal snow ridge to a large saddle at 4418m). Go up the broader ridge to the E summit, 4527m.

Descent

From the E summit, some rocks then a snow bulge lead to a narrow, almost horizontal ridge, (beware of cornices.) The descent of this ridge can often be awkward and one needs to maintain concentration.
To reach the Lisjoch, climb down a last bulge. follow the crest of the ridge and cross a bergschrund. If it is not possible to cross the bergschrund, go down at steep slope to the right (40°) for about 80m to traverse back towards the Lisjoch. Reach the Lisjoch (4248m) by traversing E towards the Ludwigshöhe.
From the Lisjoch, go down the Lis glacier, very crevassed, but often well tracked, to the Gnifetti hut or the Citta di Mantova hut, 150m lower down.

Alternative descents

From the Lisjoch, one can go down the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut and then the Gornergrat train to Zermatt
One can also return to the Quintino Sella hut via the Naso del Liskamm - 4272m (Paso del Naso - 4150m).

remarks

  • The whole ridge is above 4000m,(above 4400m from W-E summits) you need to be acclimatized.
  • The difficulties are the narrow, often corniced snow ridges, the rocks are easy.
  • Good weather and snow conditions required, avoid windy days.
  • If done in the other direction, you avoid the difficult descent to the Lisjoch

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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