Aiguille de la Glière : Mani Puliti

Aiguille de la Glière : Mani Puliti

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

D  
5b > 5a

    I    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2836 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 175 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Mani Puliti
Mani Puliti

Approach 5mn

The buttress is straight in front of you as you step of the Index chairlift, recognisable by a red mark at the foot of the cliff. The start is to the right of this red mark, the first bolt is easily spotted.

Route

L1 4a
L2 4c
L3 5a Possible to belay 10m higher up at a bolt on a good ledge at the foot of a slab.
L4 5b Slab. Nuts useful (easy placements) because the 2nd bolt is 10m vertically above the 1st. Great pitch.
L5 3 Linking pitch. Slings useful for runners on the ridge. Belay after a short descent, otherwise there is too much rope drag for the next pitch.
L6 5b Airy traverse to the left under an overhang then a little corner.

Finish by 30m of easy scrambling.

Descent

Scramble easily down the south (to the right looking down) gully of the buttress, then easy ledges to a little col overlooking the col de l’Index. From here either climb down a little gully on the right to join the scree path coming down from the Index or follow the faint path to the left until a 25m abseil onto the screes below.

It is also possible to abseil back down the route, not recommended due to its popularity.

remarks

  • Mani Puliti means "dirty hands" in Italian. The route, however, has been well cleaned and bolted, except for the 4th pitch which is easy to protect.
  • The last pitch starts with an airy traverse, good training in exposure.
  • Mainly slab climbing, superb rock near the top.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 50m rope, 8 quickdraws
  • Nuts perhaps useful for pitch 4, (2-3 nut or friends (3-5 cm).

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