Aiguille du Génépi (Argentière) : Mort de rire

Aiguille du Génépi (Argentière) : Mort de rire

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5b

    II    P2  E4 

heights

elevation min/max : 2770 m / 3059 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The route does not follow a logical line but searches out slab climbing. Looking at the topo in the hut, (the warden may even make you a copy!) is probably the best way to avoid following the wrong route.

Approach 20mins

From the hut, go up the moraine of the Améthystes glacier. Go past the first pinnacle, (Aiguille du Refuge,) and go to the centre of the foot of the face of the next pinnacle (Aiguille du Génépi).

Route

L1 A flake, (1 bolt visible just to the left of it,) then slab climbing to a ledge, (which rises up from the foot of the face on the right.)
L2 Climb the slab to the left of an obvious corner.
L3 Turn an overhang on the right then traverse back to the left, 3 bolts (either A0 or 6a+, then 5c) to avoid an obvious roof. Continue by some slabs until a ledge.
L4 Small white flakes (5b, beautiful), pass a hanging belay, trend left up cracks (4c) to a large belay ledge with 2 old bolts. 45m
L5 Do not climb the crack but go obliquely rightwards, then straight up a slab (5b) until it becomes vertical. Traverse to the right (5c, splendid balance move,) then easier to the foot of a rock pinnacle on the Genepi ridge, 20m from the (little) summit.

Descent

Either: continue up the S ridge and descend the other side 22m abseil followed by 20 mins easy walking to the foot of the climb,
Or: Four abseils down the route.

remarks

The 6a+ moves can be aided. The rest is slab climbing and not too sustained.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

The belays are bolted and normally 3 to 4 bolts per pitch. Some nuts and friends are essential.

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