Plateau du Jardin : Dièdre central

Plateau du Jardin : Dièdre central

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD  
6a > 5b

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2770 m / 3177 m

height_diff_up: 400 m

height_diff_difficulties: 170 m

orientations

E W S N

description

The climbing is sustained at 5b/5c+. Chamonix style cracks, which are very strenuous if you are not used to them. Possible to climb for most of the year.

Approach

From the hut take the path towards the « Glacier du Milieu » and go up its moraine.
From the moraine you can see the entire route. It climbs a corner crack, not obvious to see at first but very straight, in the centre of the face. Two thirds of the way up the face there is a 60m red corner, identifiable by two little roofs near its top, one after the other, after which the angle of the cliff eases slightly.
At the end of the moraine go up easily to a grassy ledge at the foot of the corner crack

Route

L1 (5b, 20m) – A crack leaning to the left leads into the back of the corner crack which is climbed to a little platform, (4b with a move of 5b, 3m before the belay).
L2 (6a, 35m) – A wide crack sustained at 5 with a section of 2-3m at 6a. (Layback, camalots #2 and 3). Follow the back of the corner to the belay.
L3 (5c, 45m) – A steep corner crack at 5a-b with a move of 5c to a good platform with an optional belay (2 pegs.) Next either climb up by a large flake on the right (5a then a 4c traverse to the left,) or at the back of the corner (5c+), until a good ledge at the foot of the large red corner, (seen from below.)
L4 (5c, 35m) – Pass a bulge to the left (4c) then climb up the back of the corner sustained 5b, bridging, (difficult to protect near the top, as the crack is very thin,) to a step with flake and blocks to the right.
L5 (5c+, 20m) – Follow the back of the corner (5c) until it comes up to a roof, (the first and not the second, where there is a wire nut and a quickdraw.) Traverse to the left (2 pegs) by rounded cracks, to pass a rib and establish oneself on the other side. Reach the belay 4m above, on a little step. Careful with rope drag.
L6 (5c, 40m) – Climbed a choked crack with pegs in-situ, (foresee 3-4 spare quickdraws,) overcome a little overhang (5c) then a steep corner (5b) which gradually eases in angle (the crack becomes more awkward but the slab to the left provides foot holds.) Reach a little wall, above which is the belay. This is the end of the difficulties.

From here you can reach the Plateau du Jardin in 4 pitches, easier climbing but on suspect rock. Go up obliquely to the right to gain a gully of grey rock, then up a ridge, (or some cracks to the right.) Traverse to the E until you can descend the “coté Améthystes”

Descent

• From the top of the sixth pitch, make 4 abseils (50m, 35m, 35m, 50m one bolt per belay, check the slings.)
• If you continue to the Plateau, descend to the E, "coté Améthystes”.
To descend on foot: (fairly challenging): Two cairns to the north of the large boulder on the crest mark the start. Go down a maze of steep, narrow gullies for 40 to 50m trending rightwards to a gap to the south. Two easy abseils bring you to some large pink slabs leading to the final gap (always on the right.) A last abseil (old bit of blue cord) ends at this gap. (1h30 )

remarks

• The route seems to have less in-situ gear than before, (belays plus 1 or 2 pegs per pitch.
• The “obligatory” grade assumes some climbing at A1.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Foresee a set of friends (Camalot #0.4 > #3), perhaps doubled for the smaller sizes, and some nuts.

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