Petit Bargy : Voie des Dalles

Petit Bargy : Voie des Dalles

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3430ET - La Clusaz - Grand-Bornand

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: calcaire

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5b > 5b

    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1600 m / 2098 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach Approximately 1h from the parking.

From the Lac Bénit, take a small path on the left side which rises into the forest. The path is marked in red signs on the trees. Follow the path, direction Des Dalles.
From here, two solutions :
• Solution 1 (easy) : Keep on this path until it comes out of the trees. After another 20 metres height gain, the start of the route is visible. Continue past the line of the route then come back sharply climbing to the start by grassy steps, on a faint but discernable path.
• Solution 2 (more difficult but more direct). A second track to the right leads directly to the rockface. A short scramble leads to the beginning of the route.

Route Approximately 400m of climbing

L1 4c A slab just to the right of the obvious chimney. (The first protection point is at 8 metres). Belay on a ledge.
L2 Follow the ledge on the left to a second chimney/crack.
L3 4c Climb the chimney. Belay at the top on a ledge.
L4 4c Climb the crack above. Belay on the ledge. (Up to here, new bolts, because the route is shared by « Hauteclaire » which splits off above).
L5 4b Follow the ledge for about 10 metres, climb the steps (delicate, poor rock) and then a slab. Belay in a small hollow at the foot of two corners.
L6 4c Climb a ramp above the belay and then the obvious corner.
L7 5a Continue up the corner. Belay at the top (on the right) just as the corner curves a little towards the left. Pitches 6 and 7 give excellent climbing!
L8 5b Either go straight up (less interesting rock) or traverse about 10m to the right and climb a slab, slightly diagonally to the left. 2 bolts in the slab.
L9 4a Slab, first obliquely left, then straight up.
L10 4b A rather grassy slab. Start by traversing right then come back left under the overhanging rockband to the belay.
L11 4a Slab obliquely to the left staying below the overhang. No pre-bolted belay.
L12 3c Continue easily to the end of the difficulties. Again, no pre-bolted belay.

Descent 1h45 approximately back to the parking

Gain the summit crest of Petit Bargy.
From the summit take the marked footpath from the Col de l’Encrenaz which descends to the lake. The path is sometimes steep and exposed.

The descent by the Encrenaz gully is also possible, with care. From the top of the route, traverse upwards towards the summit crest on rock and grass, then just grass. Do not traverse horizontally because of rock bands.

remarks

• Good and varied climb. Cracks, chimneys and slabs.
• A few, rare sections of poor rock (Pitch 5 after the 10m traverse on the ledge).
• Route finding can be difficult, but the line shoud be obvious enough.
• Faces north, so cold in the morning and damp after rain.
• Bolted for the first 4 pitches. Pegs and occasional bolts after.
• Good belay points with two bolts.
• Despite it’s easy grading, the route should be treated with respect and attention.
• The descent in the gully is a bit gloomy.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Wires, friends (up to 3 Camalot), slings.
Possibly a hammer, to secure the exisiting pegs,- and some pegs?

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