Aiguille du Peigne - Dalle NW du gendarme 3009 m : Les Lepidoptères

Aiguille du Peigne - Dalle NW du gendarme 3009 m : Les Lepidoptères


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc



route_types: loop_hut, return_same_way
durations: 1 day(s), 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great


5b > 4c

    II    P2+ 


elevation min/max : 2300 m / 3192 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 130 m


glacier_gear: crampons_spring


lift_access : yes




Pleasant, varied climbing; not too committing.


From the Plan de l'Aiguille, climb the spur leading to the “Arête des Papillons" and then to the left, aiming for the right of the snow patches. Pass above a large boulder and follow the ledges to the left, (one passes above the snow patches, cairns.) You come across a small buttress (10m, 4a) and then climb a series of ledges, (firstly to the left then to the right). Bolt with metal link at the start.


L1 : 4b then 3b, slab, climb it on the right.
L2 : 4c Take the crack straight above, (and not the chimney crack to the right next to a little pinnacle.)
L3 : 4c, Continue by the crack and then a corner
L4 : 5b, pass an overhang on the left then easier climbing above.
L5 : 3/4, climb the easy angled slabs.

Either stop here or continue by the l'arête des Papillons (move of 4) for 2 pitches to reach the top of the gully on the normal route.


A – Abseil down the route if there are not too many other parties on it.

B – From the top of the route: 2 abseils to reach the gully on the normal route. One more abseil lower down, continue down the gully and go to the left (cairns) to join the edge of the Pélerins glacier (snow patches). From there follow the path to the Plan de l'Aiguille.
C – From the gap at the end of the arête des Papillons (start of the ledge on the normal route) gain the gully in 1 abseil then continue down the gully (second abseil) following the itinerary in alternative B.


• In the shade in the morning.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


Slings, nuts and friends


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