Zinalrothorn : N Ridge

Zinalrothorn : N Ridge


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 283 - Arolla
  • Swisstopo - 1327 - Evolène



route_types: return_same_way
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: fine

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3b > 3b



elevation min/max : 2886 m / 4221 m

height_diff: +1400 m / -1337 m

route_length: 8.134 km

height_diff_difficulties: 450 m

slope: 45°


glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear




First ascent : 22 august 1864 - Leslie Stephen, F. Crawford Grove, with the guides : Melchior and Jakob Anderegg.


Approach To the Blanc de Moming ridge (2-3hrs)

From the Cabane Mountet follow the cairned path up the moraine until 3100m. Go onto the Mountet glacier (crevassed, especially in its lower part,) and go N-NE to the col between the Zinalrothorn and the Blanc de Moming (3800m), bergschrund to cross.

Route N ridge (2-3hrs)

From the col, follow the snowy ridge, then rocks, (which become steep and airy,) to the shoulder of the Zinalrothorn (4017m). You can also gain the shoulder directly by the face, quicker and easier.
Climb the rocks on the Mountet side, then rejoin the crest of the ridge. Follow this easily until the "Rasoir", (razor).
Traverse the crest of the Rasoir on the Mountet side (III), belays at the start and finish.
Bypass the Sphinx on the Mountet side (bolts).
There a section of the ridge, "La Bourrique", (donkey), climbed "a cheval",(astride,) to reach a large pinnacle, "La Bosse". This is climbed firstly on its right then in the centre (III, broken slab, belay at a bolt plus a peg at 25m, then a spike at the end of the difficulties.) Descend 5m, (one can leave a long sling here for the way down.)
Now follow the crest of the ridge to the summit, easy unless snowed over, protection pegs in place.


Either by the same route if you are returning to the Cabane du Grand Mountet. Some abseils points are in place for the more difficult sections.
Or by the normal route (SE ridge) if you are traversing to the Rothorn hut.


From the col the summit looks a lot nearer than the reality.
A classic, airy ridge climb.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


Helmet, 45m rope, 2-3 friends


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