Aiguille de Charlanon : Éperon SSE de droite

Aiguille de Charlanon : Éperon SSE de droite

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D-  
5b > 5aA0

    II    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2150 m / 2549 m

height_diff_up: 250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 160 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1h

From Planpraz. Start of up the 4x4 track, do not follow it towards "Charlanon", but take the path on the left towards Lacs Noirs and Lac Cornu.
After about 30mins on this path, identify the 2 spurs and climb up the scree slope to the right-hand one.
Start at a compact slab to the right.

Route

L1 4c 20m Nice slanting crack
L2 4c 25m Pass to the right
L3 4c 30m
L4 5a 40m Start by bridging, get to the summit of an intermediary needle.
A 10m abseil.
L5 3
L6 4b The start is a bit overgrown, a corner followed by a slab
L7 4b

Descent

From the top of the route do not follow the ridge, but traverse horizontally by a faint path, fairly exposed, until the right-hand gully. (Careful not to slip if the grass is wet.)
Descend this gully to the screes at the start. It is also possible to abseil back down from the top of pitch 4 and miss out the last 3 pitches.

remarks

Peaceful and well bolted

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

2 slings to replace missing bolts at the belays

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