Aiguille de Praz Torrent : Parat-Seigneur

Aiguille de Praz Torrent : Parat-Seigneur

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge, face

quality: great

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Rating

TD-  
6a > 5a

    II    P2  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 1400 m / 2573 m

height_diff_up: 1173 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

difficulties_height: 2400 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

height_diff_access: 1000 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Andre Parat and Yannick Seigneur, July 6th, 1969

description

A classic route on good rock.

Approach 1h30 - 2h

Park at the start of the 4x4 track to the Berade valley, which is on the left coming from Chamonix, a few hudred metres before the Le Buet railway station. Follow the track for a few hundred metres to a signpost indicating the path to Praz Torrent. Follow this trail up to a ridge at 1800m (signpost), then turn right and continue up towards Aig de Praz-Torrent. Alternatively, park the car 400m after col des Montets, on de Vallorcine side. There is a parking spot for 3 cars on the right hand side of the road, after crossing a small bridge. A faint path starts immediately across the road and joins with the main trail coming up from Le Buet after about 20 min

Voie Parat-Seigneur
Voie Parat-Seigneur

Route

L1 5b 35m 4 pegs The route starts with a ramp slanting up to the right (3b, first peg hidden). Continue round a corner to the right and then climb straight up, out of a niche on steep ground with good holds (5b). Stance on a small platform.
L2 5a 20m 3 pegs A few delicate moves (1 peg) up and slightly to the right to get into a corner. Follow this for a couple of metres and then move right onto a slab split by a good vertical crack. Climb up the crack and traverse right a few metres under an overhang to the belay.
L3 5b 20m 2 pegs Climb another small overhang on the right (5b, good holds), then come back left and finally move straight up between two patches of grass to a belay over on the left at the bottom of a corner (4a). (Ignore the belay on tat above on the right.)
L4 5b 20m 3 pegs Traverse left for 4m (1 peg at the start) then climb an excellent corner to gain a good ledge on the left.
L5 6a 15m 5 pegs Clip the peg to the right (accessible from the terrace) and climb the overhanging wall past a 2nd peg.(6a or A0). Continue diagonally upwards to the right a few more metres. Go straight up to a peg with a sling and another steep move (6a or A0). A short traverse to the right brings you to the belay.
L6 5b 20m 3 pegs Traverse right, at first horizontal and then descending, to the foot of a chimney. Climb the chimney for 15 metres. Belay halfway up the chimney. Be aware of possible rope-drag. NB it is possible to traverse directly to the chimney, thus avoidingg the downclimb,(slightly harder).
L7 5c 20m 5 pegs Continue up the chimney, climb over a chockstone and go to the right, out of the chimney (peg). Continue climbing diagonally to the right over steep ground until you reach a small shoulder next to a small pine tree. Go up easy slabs for 5m to the belay at the bottom of a magnificent jamming crack.
L8 5c 45m 4 pegs Climb the crack (Camalot 4 perhaps useful). Climb up to a small overhang/flake (wooden peg, another in-situ friend) and turn it on the right hand side. Then climb a slab, moving up and slightly towards the right (1 peg, note a bolted route runs parallel to the left). Reach a small ridge, traverse a little more to the right and climb a final crack (1 peg). (It is possible to traverse much further right here, past two bolts and climb a little corner on the right of the slab, peg, which brings directly to the final crack.) Bolted belays.
L9 3b 100m Ascend to the ridge and climb it easily, with two moves of 3b.
L10 3b 50m Below the summit, turn towards the right, pass a small saddle and finally climb straight up and then slightly towards the left on broken ground towards the summit.

Descent 1 hr back to the bottom of the route.

Follow SW along the ridge for 150m, some pegs, then at the second or third saddle, get to a secondary ridge on the left, faint path, moves of 3 if you stay on the ridge. The abseil point is clearly visible. Make a 50 metre abseil to the screes which lead, unpleasantly, back to the start, (stout shoes recommended.).

remarks

Homogeneous route with 6 out of 8 pitches at 5b/c. Pitches 2 till 7 are short pitches with typically only a few harder moves on every pitch.
Well equipped belays on pegs and bolts. Between the belays there are mostly older pegs.
There are extra protection placements. A good initiation into placing protection
The route has a few overhangs, but also plenty of slabs, cracks, chimneys and corners.
The GPS track associated with the route was taken from the map and so can be improved!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • Take a small set of nuts and slings to complement the in-situ protection.
  • Take also Camalots 0.3 - 1 / Friends 0.5 - 2.
  • A No.4 Camalot or equivalent useful on L8.

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