Aiguille Dibona : Normal route

First ascent on 27 June 1913 by Guido Mayer and Angelo Dibona.
First winter ascent on 21 December 1932 by Dr. Guyot accompanied by C. Rodier and A. Richard.

This summit, until then named "Pain de Sucre du Soreiller", later took the name of its first victor which is one beautiful tribute paid to one whose routes remain as a references in great mountaineering.

Ascent 1h

From Soreiller refuge, traverse an area of large boulders to the west leading to an easy rocky slope making it possible to cross the crest formed by the last basements SW of Dibona (visible signal from the refuge). Take the cree slopes (trails and cairns) to access the firn resulting from the W pass of Soreiller. At the top of the latter (2980 m approximately), via a trail on ledges (cairns) and a snow covered flat area at the beginning of the summer, you reach Brèche des Clochetons where you rope up (3048 m).

North ridge

Then make an easy traverse under Clochetons Gunneng, to reach the notch separating the small pinnacles of the pinnacle proper. From there, 2 short and exposed pitches (pitons, possibility of using nuts, belays on chains) make it possible to arrive at the summit.

Descent 1h15

From the summit, you reach the rappel chain via a short downclimb. Make a 50 m rappel (possibility of descending in two shorter rappels) to arrive at the notch between Aiguille Dibona and Clochetons Gunneng. Make an easy downclimb traversing downward to reach the broad party ledges of Brèche des Clochetons. From here take the ascent route.

Despite the laid back atmosphere of the place, neglecting the altitude of the summit would be a mistake: it is a great mountain climb, with all the precautions to take in these places. If you climb in the afternoon, bear in mind that the arrival of many rope parties climb the southern face. Between 2.30 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. the summit and the descent can be crowded and the atmosphere affected. Check the sky in the event of stormy weather, the summit forms a good lightning conductor.

Short climb which is possible to do in the afternoon after the climb to the refuge.

Exposed climb on the ridge but equipped with wide, comfortable belays which make it good for beginners to mountain climbing.

Access:
Grenoble > Bourg d'Oisans > St Christophe en Oisans. Take the road that goes towards La Bérarde until the hamlet of Des Étages (parking at the beginning of the road entering the hamlet). A coach line goes from Grenoble to La Bérarde (VFD). The schedule varies based on the season. Information at 0820 833 833.

Accommodation:
Soreiller refuge (04.76.79.08 32). Easy access in 2h 30 to 3 h. A rock climber's refuge where you can get lots of information thanks to the caretaker's competence who has climbed the majority of the routes including a number at the opening.

Helmet, rappel rope, some nuts and small and average friends if you are right in the level, slings. The firn can be frozen the morning, so at the beginning of the season you need crampons and suitable shoes. Get information on the snow conditions at the refuge.