Aiguille du Tour : Sommet S par l'Arête SW de la Table de Roc

Aiguille du Tour : Sommet S par l'Arête SW de la Table de Roc

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

AD  
4c > 4a

    III    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2702 m / 3540 m

height_diff: +838 m / -969 m

route_length: 15.172 km

height_diff_difficulties: 440 m

difficulties_height: 3100 m

slope: 45°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Fairly long outing with some route finding difficulties.

L'Arête de la Table de Roc
L'Arête de la Table de Roc
Aiguille du Tour, versant Sud
Aiguille du Tour, versant Sud

Approach 1h30

• From the Albert 1er hut, From the Albert 1er hut, follow the path that runs parallel to the glacier, initially lots of large cairns, then even more smaller cairns, not always helpful. Drop down onto the glacier and go up the true right bank of the Tour Glacier towards the Col Superior du Tour. At 3100m, turn off left (NE) to reach the foot of the Couloir de la Table, clearly visible, (1h30).
• From the Cab. du Trient hut (or the Orny), traverse the Trient plateau by following the the normal route and after about two thirds of the way, turn off left to cross the Col Supérieur du Tour. Go down the Tour glacier, then go around a rock spur, (Point 3250m on the IGN map. Climb back up to the foot of the Couloir de la Table, clearly visible (2h from the Orny).

Route

Cross the bergshrund on the right and climb up the couloir (40-45°), avoiding the central runnel, (prone to stone and ice fall.) A little before the half way point, go to the left to reach a little col where the ridge climbing starts. Follow the ridge until below the Table rock, (many variations possible.)
To climb onto the Table, there are two options : either by the “leg” of the Table, climbing a short but exposed pitch, (3c with 1m of 4b), being tall helps, or the wall against which the Table rests, easier to protect but physically harder (4c at least, some times bits of gear in place, e.g. slings for the feet.)

Climb the wall above the table, then follow the ridge sometimes exposed, which leads to a col at the top of the couloir. If you are on the crest of the ridge, to get to the col climb down the last step on the left (NW) or make a little (5m) abseil, (slings in place.)
The route now joins the classsic “couloir de la Table” and follow the ridge, easier than the ridge just climbed. Reach the fore-summit, marked with a cross, then onto the S summit of the Aiguille du Tour.

Variant : SW Ridge intégrale
One can start the ridge a little before the Couloir de la Table, keeping mostly to the left of the crest of the ridge. The rock to the left of the couloir can be climbed in various places. In the first part the rock is of poor quality, careful not to dislodge stones, and test the rock spikes used for belays.

Descent

By the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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