Li Blanche : Arête S

Li Blanche : Arête S

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • Swisstopo - 1325 - Sembrancher
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

D  
6a > 5bA0

    III    P1+  E3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1478 m / 2195 m

height_diff: +750 m / -802 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Martigny - Orsières - Champex - Hotel Splendide - Parking 100m further on.

Approach

From the parking follow the Belvedere track.
This climbs a bit, traverses the hillside towards the north and then zigzags upwards. After a hairpin and a bench, when the path turns towards the south, locate a cairn and a little path, which climbs, steeply up the hillside. Follow the path, (cairns and blue paint marks,) which ascends the slopes and then traverses the upper part of the large ravine that separates you from the Li Blanche ridge, now clearly visible.

Route

Start climbing from a gap, identifiable by the belay point (2 bolts with a sling) 3a, 25m, traversing.
From there 14 pitches, mostly 50m, either on the crest of the ridge or on the NE face.

L1 4a
L2 4c
L3 5a
L4 5b
L5 4a
L6 6a Pitch 6 is the crux, the only pitch with real and sustained difficulties.
L7 5b
L8 5a
L9 4b
L10 5a
L11 5b
L12 5b
L13 5a
L14 4b

Very heterogeneous climbing. Basically a 3c route with sections of 5a, 5b, 5c.
5c avoidable (A0).

Descent

Directly from the summit make three abseils to the ravine, going slightly NW of the falline. From there one can down climb the ravine or use 2-3 other abseil rings placed at the base of the cliff.
Then follow a faint path back to the start.

remarks

  • Dries quickly after rain, gets the sun.
  • In some places the rock is friable, but with one exception, solid in the difficult sections.
  • Committing as retreating would be difficult.
  • A fantastic ridge.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 2×50 m ropes necessary (abseils)
  • 10 quickdraws, (for 12 of the 14 pitches, 4 quickdraws suffice.)
  • Some medium sized nuts and friends and some slings (but difficult to find good placements.)
  • Helmet (essential!)

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