Mont Blanc du Tacul : Goulotte Lafaille

Mont Blanc du Tacul : Goulotte Lafaille

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: goulotte

quality: great

Rating

D   4    II    P2 

heights

elevation min/max : 3500 m / 4248 m

height_diff_up: 300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 300 m

slope: 80°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 1-1h30

From the Aiguille du Midi, follow the Vallee Blanche ski piste, traverse under the Pointe Lachenal to gain a little bowl to the W of the Pyramide du Tacul.

Some climbing routes on the East Face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul
Some climbing routes on the East Face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul

The “Goulotte Lafaille” is the obvious gully the furthest left of the couloir du Diable, it leans against the Aiguilles du Diable.

Route

The bergshrund is crossed to the right of the gully. Climb up in a traverse, (100m at 45°,) and take a belay on the true left bank of the gully, (bolt.) Climb the gully for 5 pitches: 75°, 70°, 60°, 60°, 80°.

Descent

Abseil back down the route, or continue to the summit by the couloir du Diable. Return on ski by the Vallée Blanche, being careful not to miss the last train at Montenvers. Alternatively. The long walk back up to the Aig du Midi.

remarks

It is possible to do the route in a day from the first lift.
Often only the first 3 or 4 pitches are climbed, making the route a more reasonable grade.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

6 ice screws of medium length, 1 small set of nuts and friends.
The belays are in place, 2×60 m rope recommended.

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