Aiguille du Midi : Éperon des Cosmiques - Voie Rébuffat

Aiguille du Midi : Éperon des Cosmiques - Voie Rébuffat

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: pillar

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
6a > 5b

  A0+    II  X1    P3  E4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3593 m / 3842 m

height_diff_up: 249 m

height_diff_difficulties: 120 m

difficulties_height: 3593 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

A nice route on good rock. A nice way to join the Cosmiques Ridge and a clacsic in its own right.

Topo Eperon des Cosmiques : Voie Rébuffat
Topo Eperon des Cosmiques : Voie Rébuffat

Approach

From the Aiguille du Midi, descend to the Col du Midi plateau in the direction of the Cosmiques hut. Pass under the S face of the Midi and arrive without difficulties at the foot of the Cosmiques spur.

Route

Start up a snow couloir to the left of a pillar, (can be dry and very loose later in the season,) to gain some ledges at 3b/4b which lead rightwards, under the overhangs which cross the face.
The first real pitch starts up a corner and leads, (trending slightly rightwards) towards a crack which passes through the overhangs, (bits of sling, 5c/A0.) The next pitch is short to a comfortable belay, or longer (40m) to a less comfortable one. Continue upwards using cracks for another pitch until the ground eases.
From the top of the spur easy ground leads to the Cosmique ridge route and so to the Cable car station.

Descent

The cable car!

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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