Aiguille Verte : Whymper couloir

Aiguille Verte : Whymper couloir

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop, return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: edge, corridor

quality: great

Download track as

Rating

AD+     III    P3 
5.3 / E3
TD+ / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 2687 m / 4122 m

height_diff: +1600 m / -3089 m

route_length: 3.5 km

height_diff_difficulties: 600 m

difficulties_height: 3500 m

slope: 50°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

The normal route of the Aiguille Verte !!

Itinéraire du couloir Whymper
Itinéraire du couloir Whymper

Approach from the Couvercle hut 2 to 3h

From the hut climb up directly to the N, passing under the Aig du Moine and go along fairly close to the Ecclesiastiques ridge to avoid the crevasses and seracs of the Talèfre glacier until you reach the Whymper Gully.

Route 2 to 4h + 30 min to the summit

Cross the bergshrund on the right and climb up a little secondary gully. Exit this gully on the left by a spur to join the main couloir which comes down from the Grande Rocheuse. Climb up to 3650m and traverse to the left in the main couloir which then leads directly to the col between the Aig Verte and the Grande Rocheuse, (2 to 4h, 3950m). Follow the snow ridge to the summit. (30 minutes).

Descent 4 to 6h to the hut

By the Whymper Couloir

From the summit regain the col and go into the Whymper couloir. There are abseil points on the true left side of the gully (often at 60m intervals.) In the last quarter of the descent, go again to the left, (looking downwards) to join a secondary gully which leads to the bergschrund. Abseil point on the left bank.
Once on the Talèfre glacier, (very crevassed), get back to the Couvercle hut by keeping to the true right side of the glacier, traversing under the Aig du Moine. (The approach route).

By the Moine Ridge

This descent is recommended if the Whymper is too dry or in bad condition, for example late in the day. The route is mixed, never difficult but long and sustained, starts directly from the summit of the Verte in the direction of the Moine ridge, to the south. Do not start down the line of abseils more or less equipped on the Talèfre face. Bypass a pointed pinnacle by the Talèfre face, then stay on this face, under the ridge just to the point 3850m.
Descend a chimney gully, 1 abseil from a metal ring, then continue by slabs and snow bands. Traverse to the right to a little col, but do not descend the deep gully, instead go to a second little col on a secondary ridge. Continue to traverse on ledges to the right (S). Head down towards the bergschrund on the Talèfre glacier, the slope steepens. Go to the left, (abseils possible to reach the glacier). Once on the glacier (very crevassed) regain the Couvercle hut by taking the true right bank under the Aig du Moine .

remarks

Outside of winter, the SE orientation means it is necessary to start the descent before the first sun rays heat up the gully and cause snow, ice and/or stone fall. Failure to leave the hut very early could mean either descending the Moine ridge or waiting until nightfall to descend.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Two technical axes sometimes necessary.
2×60 m abseil ropes very useful.

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