Aiguille du Chardonnet : Goulotte Escarra

Aiguille du Chardonnet : Goulotte Escarra

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: goulotte

quality: medium

Rating

D+   4    III    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 2702 m / 3824 m

height_diff_up: 1122 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

slope: 80°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

185399

Approach 2hrs30/3hrs

From the "Albert Ier" hut, go up toward the "Aiguille du Chardonnet" crossing the "Glacier du Tour" (beware of crevasses in Autumn). Around 3100m, take to the left of the "kidney" inside the glacial trough leading to the Adams Reilly's col. The gully is on the left and starts around 3550m, quite obviously diagonally oriented.

Route 4hrs to 6hrs

Climb up the gully. The first part is in mixed ice/rock, then in snow.
Difficulties are located around the end of the first third of the climb. There is a short steep ice wall (IV).
Continue for 3 to 4 length of rope in the 55° inclined gully (ice/snow) bringing to a collar.
From there, there are two possibilities to access the summit: by the north face or slightly to the right of the collar by a bit of easy mixed snow/rock/ice.

Way down 3hrs

From the summit, you can go down a thin ridge oriented to the West. Climb down several feet to land on a rock saddle. To the right, there's a nice lane in snow that is used to climb down. Stay to the right side (45° max, do not go in the big lane that leads to the left side: it is very steep and overhangs the "Argentière" side of the mountain). Climb down diagonaly to the right by snow slopes to come back towards the Tour basin, onto a snow/rock saddle.

Then there are two options:

  • Follow the rock saddle towards the "Aiguille Adams Reilly", keeping slightly to the right. At the bottom of the rock saddle, a short part, slightly more steep between the rocks brings you to the start of the abseiling stands (20m).
    The first abseil is to the right of a deep lane. The second one is to the left at the exit of that lane (abseil the second length slightly to the right).
    We land onto a snow slope that leads to a snow saddle between the "Chardonnet" and "L'aiguille Adams Reilly".
    Then, follow the glacier from the shoulder (at the start by the left side)

  • From the rock saddle go to the right on a snow/rock slope.
    At the bottom of the slope, a ledge (kairn) takes you horizontally to the left towards a small hanged névé (firn). Cross that névé going slightly to the left to find a first abseiling stand (two pitons, slings). In one 50m long rappel (the start is steep), we land in a deep lane. Another rappel of 50m (loops of rope to the right side) allows you to reach a big block/pillar to the right side. Exit on a steep snow slope well bellow the snow saddle between the "Chardonnet" and "L'Aiguille Adams Reilly". Climb down the slope following the rocks to the right side (bergschrund is to be crossed all the way to the right, where the bequets are. There are slings in place to abseil if necessary).

After the bergschrund, the two options down meet each other and follow the same path down. Climb down towards the Tour Glacier (Beware of the large number of big crevasses!!!). Depending on the conditions of the Glacier, you can cross directly towards the "Albert Ier" hut, or join the foot of the "Passon" col to cross at a lower place, where there is less crevasses.

remarks

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Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

5 ice screws, 4 big sling, 2 friends

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