Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S : Voie Apo: partie inférieure de la Pointe S

Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S : Voie Apo: partie inférieure de la Pointe S

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Associated waypoints

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way, loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
5c > 5bA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2480 m / 2840 m

height_diff_difficulties: 150 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Anne-Paul & Eric Favret 2006

description

Approach 40-45mins

From the top of the Index lift, go N along the path towards the Col des Crochues until you reach the top of the teleski. (You pass underneath the cliff with "Robin Wood" etc.) From here you can see the cliff which is at the lowest point of the rocks descending from the Aig Crochues, well to the right of S ridge, (Voie Ravanel). Contour as best as you can to the foot of the cliff. "Voie Apo" starts just to the right of an obvious gully, and is currently marked with a red stick and a small cairn. Bolts visible, (with Kong hangers.)

Route

L1 5c 35m Quickly becomes quite technical with awkwardly sloping holds.
L2 5a 30m Some care needed with the rock.
L3 5a 35m Traverse rightwards then up a pleasant rib. This is followed by a loose chimney.
L4 5c 35m Good, sustained climbing, then an easy ridge to a good stance.
L5 5c 15m The difficulties are over after 7m.

Descent

Either: walk off to the right, looking upwards, to get down to the scree slope on the right hand side of the crag (still looking upwards.)
Or: Abseil down the route, taking great care not to snag the rope. From the top of pitch 2 it is possible to abseil directly into the the gully on the right, (looking downwards.)

remarks

Well bolted. All belays with two bolts and a maillon. (Slings joining the bolts need replacing, 2014)
Not a popular route so still has some loose rock and lichen. Solitude guaranteed.
The easier sister route to "Vieux Bouc" (6a+), which starts about 40m further to the right.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 10 quickdraws
  • 45m rope (double if abseilling)

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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