Le Clocher de Planpraz : Cocher-Cochon

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: medium

heights

heights

elevation min/max : 2000 m / 2412 m

height_diff_up: 412 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

Rating

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5bA0

    II    P1  E2 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description


Great and obvious line sustained at 5b/5c except for a sting in the tail, (which can be avoided). Very well bolted

Approach # 35mins

From Planpraz take the Lac Cornu path for 15 mins then ascend the first combe on the left (cairn a little higher up in the combe), to the foot of the rocks below the obvious rock tower - the Clocher.

Route

L1: A warm up pitch of 4a crossing grassy ledges.
L2: A nice 5c slab and a little traverse to the right to the belay.
L3: Start by a little traverse to the right and then climb a slab for 30m before going right 2m to a comfortable belay ledge.
L4: Continue up the slab then finish up a crack before traversing leftwards to a terrace.
L5: Follow the ridge to the summit of the pinnacle then abseil 15m to the foot of the pinnacle.

Follow a faint path for 5 mins, (rope not needed) to the foot of the « clocher » (bell tower.) (You can also climb up a 45º slab at grade 3 to the right of the path.)
L6: 2 starts possible: either at 6a+ on the right or, at 5b, 5 metres to the left. The two options rejoin 5 metres higher to take a little crack at 5b to the belay, 30m pitch.
L7: Continue until the foot of a slab, 5b, pass a ridge then traverse downwards to a little platform at the foot of the final ridge.
L8: Climb the crest of the ridge for 10m, to gain the valley face, which is climbed on the left, next to the edge, at 6a.

N.B. two escapes possible on the last pitch:
• Escape to the left after 10m.
• On the ridge after gaining the valley face, it is possible to traverse rightwards to join the crack on the normal route (4c).

Descent:

25m abseil from the Clocher summit to its base on the left. Then take the path from the col back to Planpraz, (25mins.)

remarks

Possible to do together with the traverse of Clocher-Clochetons, Route No 1 in Rebuffat’s "100 Finest Routes…". Foresee an extra 2 to 3h.

route_history

Jérémy and Morgane Franc, Manu Meot and Christophe Mussat, 19 august 2000.

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