Index de la Glière : voie Brunat-Perroux

Information

General

General

route_types: loop
activities
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

heights

heights

elevation_max: 2595 m

height_diff_up: 300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

Rating

Rating

D+  
5b > 5aA0

    II    P1  E3 

orientations

orientations

E W S N

Maps

Maps

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

Licence

description

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift take a path to the West which skirts along the base of the Index. From this a faint path goes lefttwards up scree towards the start of the route. This is at the foot of a corner on the right-hand side of the face.

Route

L1 5b Straight up the slab, passing a steep wall, (5b), then again up a slab (4c) to a belay (3 pegs) on a little terrace.
L2 4c Follow the ridge by a series of little steep sections (4c), belaying just before a grassy ledge (2 bolts.)

This is the ledge with the path leading to the start of the SE ridge of the Index.

L3 Walk up and to the right to belay (1 bolt) at the foot of some slabs.
L4 5b Straight up the slabs, passing a steep wall (5b) then upwards to the right for 5-10m before going straight up (4c) to belay on a terrace.
L5 5a Straight up the slab then climb a large crack, then a slab on the left (5a) to a belay on a terrace.
L6 5b Technical start (5b) on the slab to the left, then up slabs (4c), belaying on the second terrace.
L7 5b Straight up, passing a steep wall cut by a crack (5a) then, from a little ledge, continue upwards to the right, (4c), ignoring the obvious crack, (yellow peg at the start,) directly towards the ridge. Belay several metres below the ridge.
L8 3b Easily follow the ridge (3b) or do a short pitch on the smooth slab on the right (5c+).

Descent

From the summit traverse NE for 15m towards the col de l’Index (II). Abseil (45m) to this col, (or 25m then easy down climbing.). At least four different abseil points!
From the col it is possible to descend a gully directly. However it is recommended to climb up the face opposite, (III, 25m,) to get on the ridge of the true left bank of the gully where there is a faint path.
Before you finally get to the scree slopes it is necessary to do a little down climbing.

remarks

The Piola guidebook gives the overall grading as TDinf, perhaps D would be better

gear

The in-situ equipment is varied, (bolts, different makes of hangers etc,) but sufficient.

route_history

Jean-Christophe Brunat, Godefroy Perroux, 1985

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