Brévent : Voie Frison-Roche

Brévent : Voie Frison-Roche

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: traverse
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

TD-  
6a > 5cA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2310 m / 2525 m

height_diff_up: 200 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

description

One of the great classics of the Aiguilles Rouges, offering varied climbing at a reasonable grade.

Approach 15mins

From the Brévent cable car, follow the piste down through the "Brêche du Brévent", and between the 2nd and 3rd hairpins go rightwards across scree to a steep path (visible from the cable car) which leads to the foot of the cliff.

226050

Route 2h30/3h

L1 6a 45m Start on the left and climb a steep pillar (5b), up a smooth slab (6a one move, avoidable on the left). Continue and traverse obliquely to a terrace.
L2 5b 30m Climb the broken blocks and traverse up rightwards across a green slab. Belay at a ledge.
L3 5c 30m Straight up then climb an obvious chimney corner. Belay at the top on a good terrace.
L4 6a 40m Start up the spur on the right, then nice grey slabs. Go to the right (5c) and climb a wide, vertical corner crack for 10m (6a, 2 layback moves, or jamming). Belay on a large terrace.
L5 2 20m Linking pitch, bypass to the left a large, smooth wall of the direct finish (7a!) until the foot of a magnificent corner crack.
L6 5c 30m Splendid corner at 5b, with one move of 5c two thirds of the way up. Belay at the top.

Descent 2mins

Walk to the cable car!

remarks

  • Faces S : At the end of the season the sun disappears at 14.00h (especially Pitch 4)).
  • Certain holds need care.
  • Very well bolted, every 3-4m, (Petzl hangars.) A bolt at the start.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

  • 11 quickdraws
  • Longest pitch 45m

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