Tour Ronde : N face

Tour Ronde : N face

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View off-line all information from this route on the Camptocamp mobile application.

Associated waypoints

View in other lang fr - it

Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: great

Rating

D-   2    III    P3 
5.3 / E3
TD+ / S6

heights

elevation min/max : 3371 m / 3792 m

height_diff_up: 550 m

height_diff_difficulties: 350 m

slope: 60°

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Short route, varied, brilliant.

Approach

Tour Ronde: N face
Tour Ronde: N face

From Torino hut

Cross the Col des Flambeaux - NW, 3407m – then descend diagonally to the NW under the Aiguilles de Toules and traverse to the foot of the face.

From the Aiguille du Midi

Descend the classic Vallée Blanche via the Col du Gros Rognon, pass under the Pointe Adolphe Rey and so to the foot of the face.

Route

Choose what you think is the best line up the face of snow or ice. The angle is consistently between 45° and 50°, with one pitch of 60° or more. At half way, get past the narrows by going to the right. Go around the final rocks to the left to exit the face onto a thin, combed ridge leading towards the summit. Descend several metres and go around the rocks, on snow on the E side, to reach the summit via some small steps, (mixed, easy, II.)

Descent

By the normal route (E face) or the SE ridge, depending upon conditions.

remarks

  • Requires a good mental state rather than technical ability. Rock belays at the steepest section.
  • The route is very exposed, so you need to be comfortable climbing on steep snow/ice, especially if moving together on certain sections.
  • If the steep section is ice, (as is often the case in recent years,) then the route is much harder and extra ice screws should be taken, 6 versus 4, so that long pitches can be made to reach more comfortable stances.
  • Also possible with skis, (See French version.)

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

4-6 ice screws, (min), 2 technical ice axes.

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