Dent Blanche : S Ridge (Normal Route)

Dent Blanche : S Ridge (Normal Route)

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 283 - Arolla
  • Swisstopo - 1327 - Evolène
  • Swisstopo - 1347 - Matterhorn

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 2 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

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Rating

AD  
4b > 3b

    III    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1828 m / 4357 m

height_diff_up: 2530 m

route_length: 16.843 km

height_diff_difficulties: 850 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach ( See route to the Dent Blanche hut)

Dent blanche, normal route
Dent blanche, normal route

Route

Above the Cabane de la Dent Blanche, go up the right side of the rock ridge, (start at the ladders which arrive at the hut and then some cairns). Then stay on the ridge, exposed but easy II. Continue up the snowy section of the ridge to the Wandfluelücke (3703m).
Go up snow and some rocks with scree obliquely to the left to a first tower on the S ridge (3882m).
Follow the snow slopes on the W face and rejoin the ridge at the foot of the Grand Gendarme.
Traverse to the left for about 40m. From here there are two options:
a. climb the W face of the Grand Gendarme (3 pitches 4b, some pegs, make your own belays.)
b. continue to traverse for 20m and regain the ridge above the Gendarme by gully (snow or rock). 3 large belay stakes at 20m intervals.
For the pinnacles that follow:
1st pinnacle initially direct, a little to the left near the top.
2nd pinnacle climb direct
3rd pinnacle slightly to the right
4th pinnacle climb direct.
For the last pinnacle, traverse to the left on slabs (pegs and bolts) for about 50m then rejoin the ridge by a step section 3b and a rock gully, bolts.
Now follow the ridge which broadens and eases, or on its W flank, to the summit.

Descent

By climbing down the same route, going to the right of the Grand Gendarme
Belays in place for some abseilling, especially useful in snowy conditions. 40m rope suffices.

remarks

The steep sections clear of snow quickly. (S facing)
The slab sections can be awkward in snowy conditions.
The route is mainly snow and rock, basically non-glacial

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Min 40m rope, slings and a few nuts/friends

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